Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label Vancouver Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vancouver Island. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Going around in circles to get to Port Hardy

After we got back from Alert Bay, we jumped straight into the car for the 350km drive back to Nanaimo, to drop off the hire car. We had originally hoped to hire a car that we could drop in Port Hardy, our final destination on Vancouver Island, but that had proved too awkward and expensive, so instead, we were driving back to Nanaimo, dropping off the car, spending a night in the hostel there, and in the morning, getting a seven hour bus to Port Hardy, which is only about an hour’s drive away from Port McNeill. Oh well, such is life!



The drive down wasn’t bad, and we stopped off for dinner in Courtenay again, this time without having to make any silly detours for elusive petrol stations. I was a bit concerned about seeing the engine warning light lit up on the panel, but had been assured by the rental company that it was OK to drive, and thankfully it made it back OK.



The next morning, we came all the way back again, with a brief stop for food in Campbell River, and having hit roadworks along the way, arrived in Port Hardy, late, at 6:30 pm.



We were only here for the one night, just to catch our ferry in the morning, so no touristy stuff to be done here, just a bit of food shopping. We had checked on the website to find out whether we could get healthy food on the two ferries we would be taking over the next few days, and weren’t that hopeful that the options available would do our diets much good.



As we were also going be having a lot of long train journeys coming up, with food choices being ‘oh so healthy’ options like pizza pops and cheeseburgers, we had bought ourselves a coolbag, which we were planning to stuff with salads, cold meats, fruit and some skimmed milk to go in our tea and with our healthy breakfast cereal. We weren’t aiming to cover every meal, but we figured that if could make two out of three meals OK, it would at least limit any damage.



So, we did some shopping, prepared our food, and then got ourselves to bed early, as the ferry shuttle bus was arriving to collect us at the unearthly hour of 5am.

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

The U’mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay
The pride of Alert Bay is the U’mista Cultural Centre, which opened in 1980, and has an excellent display of artifacts relating to an important part of the culture of the First Nations people - the Potlatch.




The word potlatch comes from a word meaning ‘to give’, and that is loosely what the potlatch is about, the giving of gifts as a show of your generosity. The First Nations people place a high a value on a person’s generosity, so Chiefs would wish to display theirs by giving gifts, and a potlatch was where this would happen.




However, it was rather more important than that, as the potlatch effectively formed part of their legal process too.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


Potlatches were held by the chief of a tribe to mark important events. Much like in our own culture, people might gather to mark significant life events, such as births, marriages and deaths, and the coronations or inaugurations of new leaders. But whereas for us, the purpose of attending an event is simply to celebrate or commemorate it, for the First Nations people it would also serve the equivalent purpose of the legal record.



The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




We leave all that to the registrar or some other official, who keeps a written record of what has transpired, but in this culture, there is no such official, and no written communication, so the people who attended the event, which would include those from other tribes, would effectively act as those who would bear witness to it, should the need ever arise.




The potlatch ceremony would include storytelling and dance, and whatever the official business of the day was, followed by the giving out of the gifts. The fact that the guests take the gifts offered, confirms that they accept the event that has taken place, and will attest to it.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


This was all fine until we white settlers came along and wanted to ‘civilise’ everyone. Quite why we have the arrogance to believe that our way of doing things is the only right way, I don’t know, but that’s a question for another day. It wasn’t a problem early on, but as the colonial systems became established, frustrations grew with those pesky people that would insist on doing things their own way.




Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


In 1884, the first version of the Indian Act was passed, in an effort to stop the potlatch taking place, but it was ineffectual. The law was later revised, and when the potlatches continued, the authorities started to crack down. In December 1921, a potlatch was held in a place called Village Island, and forty-five people were arrested. Twenty-two of those were convicted of offences such as dancing, making speeches, and the giving of gifts.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




The sentences were suspended on condition that the tribe that each individual belonged to turned in all of their masks, chests and other items that were connected to the holding of a potlatch. The items confiscated were thankfully not destroyed, but were passed out to two main museums and private collectors.






Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


In this way, the First Nations tribes lost a huge part of their culture and heritage, as well as their established method of recording events. Some potlatches did continue ‘underground’ usually held during storms, when only the First Nations people were confident in travelling by canoe, as would have been necessary to reach the venues.






Items made from woven cedar bark, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


Whilst I’m not going to go into it further now, I do just want to mention that of course the potlatch wasn’t the only thing that was banned. The legislation banned the use of First Nations languages, and required children to be sent to ‘residential schools’ where they were taught to abandon their own ways in favour of western culture and process, undermining the ability of the First Nations people to keep their culture and way of life alive.



Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay



The Indian Act was revised again in 1951, and section 149 on the banning of the potlatch was deleted, but never officially repealed.  Nonetheless, in the latter third of the 1900s, steps were taken to start repatriating the potlatch ceremonial items that had been confiscated.





The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




The National Museum of Man in Ottawa, which had received a large share of the items, decided to return them to the First Nations people, on condition that two new museums were built to house them. This U’mista Cultural Centre is one of the two museums, and it now has a great collection of items.



Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in that section of the museum, so I can’t show you any of the pieces that they have. The photos that I have included were from the permitted section, and show other items of First Nations art and weaving.





The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




Those sections are OK, but probably not as good as the museums in Vancouver and Victoria. In terms of information and analysis, I would have liked to see more exploration of the issues surrounding the potlatch being banned, its impact, how the tribes tried to adapt, and now that it is being brought back into the culture, how these traditional aspects and stories are being reconciled with more western education, knowledge and process.




That said, the museum is definitely worth a visit, just for the potlatch ceremonial items, which are both interesting for their history and great pieces of artwork in their own right.


Head and neckwear, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay
Blanket and apron, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay





Sunday, September 17, 2017

Port McNeill and the totems of Alert Bay

Port McNeill
We spent the night back at Port McNeill, which is one of those places that probably doesn’t get a huge number of tourists itself, but acts as a gateway to another destination. There is nothing wrong with it, and it is always interesting to see a ‘normal’ town, but there isn’t a great deal to do. Of course, some thirty minutes into the drive out of town, we realised that we had forgotten to go and see the one claim to fame that they do have here – the world’s largest burr. In fact, not just one, but two.



In case you are not familiar with a burr, it is that lumpy outgrowth that you sometimes get on a tree, usually caused when the tree is trying to protect itself against some kind of attack, and envelopes the invading disease or bug, to prevent it getting into the core of the tree.

 

World's Largest Tree Burr, Port McNeill


Now you may wonder just how big something like that can get, and I can tell you; these two have circumferences of 45 foot and 62 feet, and weigh in at 22 and around 30 tonnes.



No, we didn’t turn the car around and do an hour of extra driving just to go back, but I have borrowed a photo for the town’s website to show you, one of them sitting in it little gazebo, so that you don’t miss out on seeing it!



Alert Bay

So, if we weren’t there for the giant burr, why were we there. Well, this is where you get the ferry to a Cormorant Island, and more specifically, to Alert Bay. The island is only eight miles all the way around, but it has become a popular place to visit because of its colonial and First Nations heritage. Getting off the ferry, we stopped off at the visitor’s centre, where we were given a very helpful introduction and maps etc.



Alert Bay



A number of the main buildings in town date back to around the end of the 1800s, or the start of the next century. There used to be a huge 1870s Fish Saltery next to the location of the ferry terminal, which then became a canning factory in 1902, until the business closed in 1941. That is gone now, but a bit further down, you can see the old net loft buildings.




Alert Bay







Some of the prettier, more colourful buildings are the old Municipal Hall, the Old Customs House and the Old Court House. Aside from the first of those, which is now the Visitor’s Centre, the buildings here are generally are private premises or lodgings, so you can’t go inside them.






Alert Bay
Another attraction, albeit one that we didn’t have time to check out, was the Ecological Park. This is an unusual swamp area on a hill, that was created when a dam was built half way up the hill to store water for the fish cannery, the natural springs caused the whole area to flood, and it killed off the trees. The area has now been set aside with a boardwalk of trails created. Apparently, they used to call the place Gator Park, even though it never had any alligators; they have since dropped that name, but it seems to have stuck with the locals.



Alert Bay
One thing that there aren’t a lot of here, is places to get something to eat, especially if, like us, you are pressed for time.  We did follow a local recommendation to try the bannock, a name that I was equating with the Scottish fruitcake, but which turned out to be basically deep-fried dough. It really wasn’t going to do our diets much good, so we had it to take away, ate about half between us – it was rather tasty after all – but ditched the rest, in an admittedly fairly poor effort to limit the calories.



Bald eagle, Alert Bay


The main attraction here though is not the houses, the swamp nor the bannock, but rather it is the collection of totem poles and the U’mista Cultural Centre. I’ll talk about the Cultural Centre in the next post, but for now, we can take a look at some of the poles, including what they claim is the tallest totem pole in the world. I say claim, because I have seen the same claim made about one in Victoria too, and I can’t say which is right. The leaflet we were given refers to a 163 foot tall pole and a 10 foot pole, but then says that the top of the pole fell down during high winds in 2007, so it may be that with the extra 10 foot it was the tallest, but no longer.



In any case, it is quite tall. I got Nic to stand at the bottom of it for a photo, to give you a sense of the scale of it. It was carved by Jimmy Dick and five assistants, and as it is not a specific family post, its images show some of the tribes of the local Kwakwaka’wakw people. The carving was finished in the late 1960s, but was only raised up in 1973.



As to the rest, I can’t tell you a great deal about them. There are a couple of stories, but I should leave those for you to discover for yourselves if you ever visit the place. So, I will just leave you with some photos.


Old Cemetery, Alert Bay

Old Cemetery, Alert Bay


Alert Bay


Alert Bay


Alert Bay

World's Tallest Totem pole (perhaps), Alert Bay

Long House, Alert Bay

Alert Bay

New Cemetery, Alert Bay

New Cemetery, Alert Bay

Saturday, September 16, 2017

Whale Watching

Orcas, Telegraph Cove
We only had one night in Telegraph Cove, as they were all booked up for the second night, so we stayed in nearby Port McNeill, which was going to be our next destination, and was only a thirty-minute drive away. But we had to come back in the morning, as we had another trip booked, this time with Stubbs Island Whale Watching.

Fin whale skeleton, Telegraph Cove





We had arrived a bit early, and used the spare time to take a look around the Whale Interpretative Centre. As I mentioned before, it is small, but it is interesting, and has lots of information about how they identify the different orca pods in the region, as well as some skeletons of whales and other sea mammals.

Sea otter skeleton, Telegraph Cove


In all honesty, we weren’t feeling as enthusiastic for this trip as we might have been. The boat is a bit bigger than yesterday's, with more people on it, and we had had such good sightings of orcas yesterday, that we didn’t really think that this trip would match up.






Jellyfish, Telegraph Cove

Not that there was anything wrong with the trip. We set off straight away to find the orca pod that was in the area. It took a while, as they were quite a way out, but when we arrived it was a large pod, and they allowed us to get nice and close, with a couple of them coming right up around us briefly.  There was a zodiac nearby, and the orcas treated them to a really close encounter, which would have been great for them being so low in the water.



Orcas, Telegraph Cove
It is lovely to see the orcas all around, and so close by, but sadly they weren’t feeling playful today, so we didn’t really get any spy hops, and no breaches, which is a bit of a shame. It was still great, it’s just that we were spoiled yesterday.

Our guides today did give us a bit more information about the orcas and their situation, which was both interesting and worrying. They showed us the results of some tests that they ran to check on the level of microplastics that the orcas are absorbing into their bodies.

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

The microplastics, about the size of coffee grains, are ingested by everything from plankton to orcas, and as well as damaging the creatures internally, they can also make them think that they are not hungry, which can cause them to starve. Of course, because the orcas eat the smaller marine life, they ingest the microplastics in their bodies too.



Microplastic pollution
The bottles in the picture show a representation of the levels that they found. The smallest amount is the acceptable level. The middle amount is the level that is found in the orcas in this area, at the northern end of Vancouver Island, where the human population density and pollutants are lower. The largest amount is what they found in orcas at the southern end of the island, closer to Victoria and Vancouver.

The levels are quite concerning, and they seem to be reflected in the life expectancy of the orcas. The females are living to around 70-80 years old, but the males are only surviving to about half that age. The experts believe that the pollutants are the cause of the shorter lifespan in males, and that the reasons that the females are no affected, is that they unwittingly pass on the pollutants to their calves when they give birth.

It is sad to see the damage that we are doing to the habitat of these lovely creatures, and indeed that we may still be endangering their existence. We had been feeling a little awkward about keep insisting on not being given a straw in a drink, but this just renewed our resolve to keep on with that, and feeling even more determined to minimise our use of all plastics.

Eagle, Telegraph Cove



After watching the orcas for a while, we set off in search of other creatures, and came across a big flock of birds feeding on the water, including a couple of eagles, which we watched for a while.









Humpback, Telegraph Cove
Our next encounter was with a humpback, which hovered on the surface briefly before giving us a nice tail fluke as it dived back down again.


Humpback, Telegraph Cove
















Squiggle the Humpback, Telegraph Cove







After that, the guides took us over to an area where they had spotted a second humpback diving. They positioned the boat a little way from where they thought it would emerge, and we all gazed expectantly off into the distance, waiting for it.



Squiggle the Humpback, Telegraph Cove


Then, all of a sudden, it appeared, not off in the distance, but literally right next to us.

She was so close, that we actually felt her bump the boat. Needless to say, we were thrilled to have her pop up so close.



Squiggle the Humpback, Telegraph Cove

She hovered for a moment, presumably thinking “Bugger, where did that lump of metal come from?”, and then ducked down and passed under the boat, popping up on the other side. It stayed on the surface briefly, giving us an excellent view of her slightly mangled dorsal fin that had led to her being named Squiggle, and then flicked up her tail and dived down.



Bald eagle, Telegraph Cove






Of course, with having the zoom lense attached to the camera, it wasn’t easy to get her properly into the frame for photos, but that wasn’t really the point. It was great to see her so very close. In any case, we did better than the professional photographer on board, who had one of the huge fixed zoom lenses; he had no chance of taking any pictures that close up. Like us though, he was just excited to have seen her there.

We finished off the day with a bald eagle that was drying itself out on some rocks.







Telegraph Cove



In the end, what had started out as a nice, but unremarkable trip, became an unforgettable one, simply due to that one close encounter with a humpback called Squiggle. And that is the nature of wildlife watching.

Orcas, Telegraph Cove
Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Orcas, Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove

Bald eagle, Telegraph Cove


Telegraph Cove