Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Esquel - Trains and Welsh Teas

Esquel in the distance, from La Trochita
From El Bolson, we took the bus a little further down the country to Esquel, the furthest south we are going on this trip.

By now of course, it is firmly into autumn here, so although the sun can still be quite warm, it is getting a bit chilly, especially when the winds get up. Extra layers were definitely required, and even the gloves came out for a few days.

La Trochita, Esquel


Esquel is only a small town, with a population of less than 35,000 people. What it did have more of than most towns we'd been to though, was cats. Not that it has huge numbers, it's just that we have got very used to seeing loads of dogs in South America, and not that many cats around, whereas here, there were a number of cats out and about, some even friendly.



In fact, while our little cabana certainly wasn't the most exclusive of accommodations, it did have one point in it's favour, as it had a little ginger kitten. I managed to have a nice cuddle with the little bundle of fluff in the office, while Nic sorted out all the admin when we checked in, but sadly it wasn't allowed out to play, so I didn't get to see it again.


La Trochita, Esquel


Cats aside, Esquel is a bit of a sleepy town. There doesn't appear to be a whole lot happening at any time, and you'll be lucky to find anything at all open in the afternoon, as they have heartily embraced the idea of a siesta, so almost everything closes for hours.



So why come here? Well, we had thought we might do some walks, but a combination of not really feeling fit enough, my having picked up a stinky cold, and the rather chilly weather, meant that we soon knocked that idea on the head. But what we did still do, was take a ride on La Trochita.





La Trochita, Esquel

La Trochita is the nickname for the Old Patagonian Express, which was originally a freight train, before moving on to carry passengers, and now is a tourist train. The nickname means little gauge, and it is a narrow gauge railway, which for those of you who might care about such details, means it has a 75cm track.



The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel
We read some claims that it is the southernmost train in the world, and also the only narrow gauge train operating. However, whilst I make no pretence whatsoever to be a train enthusiast, let alone expert, I would take both with a pinch of salt; I'm fairly sure there is a train called El Tren del Fin del Mundo that runs down in Ushuaia, which is rather more southerly, and also that there are other narrow gauge working trains. In fact I'm pretty sure I travelled on a narrow gauge railway in Myanmar, albeit not a steam train.
La Trochita, Nahuel Pan
What I do know is that the line, which ran from Jacobacci in the east, was started in 1922, with trains running from around 1935, although they only reached Esquel, down here in the south west, ten years later. The oil-fired steam locomotives came from Henschel & Sohn in Germany, and later from Baldwins of the USA. Once they started carrying passengers, rather than just freight, in the 1950s, the rather basic wooden passenger coaches each had a Salamander Stove in the middle, to provide some much needed heat on what could be a very slow and cold journey.

La Trochita, Nahuel Pan

As the roads in the area developed, the railway started to decline in the 1960s, but gained a new lease of life as a popular trip for tourists to take. Paul Theroux even wrote a book about it. When they threatened to close the line in 1992, the public weren't impressed, and the line was saved, in part at least. It is now just a tourist train, with a section running from El Maiten to Desvio Thomae, and at this end, a section from Esquel to Nahuel Pan.


La Trochita, Esquel
We were quite looking forward to our little trip, but having done it, I'm not sure it is really worth the money. If you are a train enthusiast, so interested in doing it for the sake of travelling on the train itself, then that is different, and of course it may be worth it. However, if you're just after some good scenery, then perhaps not; the views are nice enough, but not spectacular, and you can take the bus or drive around here and see pretty much the same views.


La Trochita, Esquel

The stop at Nahuel Pan is pretty limited. The museum was closed, which seemed a bit odd as this surely must be the only time they get any visitors, and there were a few little places selling handicrafts or food and drink. It was also pretty cold and windy.

We did see a few turkey vultures, or at least I think that's what they were.




Trevelin

Aside from the train, we took the bus out to get afternoon tea at the nearby town of Trevelin. If Esquel is small, then Trevelin is even smaller, with a population of less than ten thousand. Like Esquel, it was first settled in the late 1800s by Welsh immigrants. The name itself means milltown, and is said to originate from the fact that a Welsh settler named John Daniel Evans established a flour mill here in 1891.

We only decided to pop over for a visit at the last minute, so didn't spend long here at all - just long enough to partake of a Welsh tea. We chose a teahouse called Nain Maggie, and were the only ones there for most of the time. I don't really know how a Welsh teahouse is supposed to look, but I suppose it could be like this. And they tried to get you in the spirit with a soundtrack of Welsh music.




Welsh Tea House, Trevelin
We weren't really sure what to expect of the food, but it was rather good. Having been warned they were large, and not wishing to do quite that much damage to our diets, we decided to share one. The homemade jam that came with the couple of slices of bread was good, and the scones weren't bad, albeit not quite like home - and of course there was no clotted cream!
Welsh Tea, Nain Maggie, Trevelin

The cakes were very tasty though. They gave us five small slices: a raspberry shortbread pastry; a shortbread pastry with crème patisserie; an apricot tart; a chocolate cake; and the famous black cake, which is a fruitcake. We rather enjoyed our tea, but we were a bit disappointed that there was no evidence of any real Welsh-ness during our visit.

Esquel, from La Trochita

The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel
 
The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

La Trochita, Esquel

The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel
Turkey Vultures (I think), the journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

Turkey Vultures (I think), the journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

Gauchos, The journey on La Trochita, from Esquel

La Trochita, Esquel
La Trochita, Nahuel Pan

Trevelin



Sunday, March 1, 2015

Letting the train take the strain

From Hsipaw, we let Duncan take the truck onwards, and we all took the train for part of the journey, so that we could see the impressive Gok Teik viaduct.  We also fancied the idea of trying out the old train too.

Mind you, we started to worry what we had let ourselves in for when we saw our tickets.  The price was made up of two elements, the expected cost of the fare, and then a less expected and rather more concerning, life insurance cover.  Not that the insurance cover cost very much, so I don't think our families would have been getting any great windfall.

For now though, we put that out of our minds and focussed on the journey.  It was fun to see everybody at the stations.  We were particularly fascinated by the women carrying their wares on their heads, not only because of how much they carried, but also the sheer skill and getting it up and down without dropping anything.

The train itself was very comfortable.  Myo had bought us tickets in the luxury section, and we had enormous seats with loads of legroom. We were also impressed to find the seats could be turned around, so you could choose whether to face backwards or forwards.


 The motion of the train though was not something everyone found so comfortable.  It had been described to us as like riding a horse, and I can see why.  It passed through a slow and steady side to side motion, like a horse walking, through a faster back and forth motion like a trot, on to a canter like burst of speed, before reaching the fully fledged lurching of the gallop. I quite enjoyed it, but some others were not so keen.


We passed the monastery we had been staying at, and through some lovely scenery, where we saw the people working the fields with their hand plough, oxen and water buffalo.

When we reached the viaduct at Nawnghkio, we could see why it was regarded as important.  When it was built by the British in 1901, using a structure imported from the Pennsylvania Steel Company, it was the largest railway trestle bridge in the world.

 From end to end it is 2260 feet across, and at 335 feet high it remains the tallest bridge in Myanmar.

The fabulous gorge itself adds to the look of the experience, as the train trundles slowly across from one side to another.

The train stops on the other side, so you can quickly get off a take, a photo, but in all honesty, aside from when you are actually on the bridge, I think that the best photos come a little afterwards.  The train makes a few hairpin turns to wind its way up the hill, so you suddenly get a view of the bridge on the other side ofthe train, and then again a bit further up.  These are good views of it, so don't settle back too comfortably until after that.


We got off at the next stop and rejoined Duncan and Xara, as well as our little car and escorts, and went the rest of the way to Pyin Oo Lwin by truck.

Monday, July 23, 2012

Railways, oysters and beach huts

While we have for some years been working and living in London, so definitely regard that as our home, we are both originally from Kent.  Our families live in the Whitstable and Herne Bay areas on the coast near to Canterbury, where we both went to school, so this is where we came to on arriving back in the UK.

When we lived here, Whitstable was a fairly average town by the sea. It always seemed to have a lot of pubs, most of which were nothing special, but the shops were run of the mill and a bit dull.

There is the beach of course, but like much of the Kent coast it is pebbles, so while it looks nice with its painted beach huts, it didn't have quite the same appeal as sand.

It does have it's own castle though, which we always liked.  I say castle, but it is really a fancy house with towers.  It was built and added to between 1790 and 1840, mostly by the Pearson and Wynn Ellis families, with the Mallandains adding a lovely staircase and oak panelling in the early 1920s.

It was bought by the council in 1935 and started to be used for public events and hired out for private parties. It was granted a license for weddings in 2004, which we were pleased about as it meant that we could use it for our wedding a couple of years later.

But Whitstable did have two claims to fame.  The first was the Canterbury to Whitstable railway line, which in 1830 was only the third ever to be built.  It is claimed as the first line to regularly take passengers and issued the first ever season tickets in 1834.  The line has hilly sections, so is in part cable hauled by static winding engines, but the steam locomotive, Invicta, used for the flat bit was built by George and Robert Stephenson, using a design close to that made famous by the slightly later Rocket.

The Stephensons between them also oversaw the construction of the line itself, while Thomas Telford built the harbour at the Whitstable end.  The line had the world's oldest railway bridge and the first ever railway tunnel used for passengers.  Isambard Kingdom Brunel is known to have checked out the latter for his own research.

The railway is long gone now, with only a few remaining bits in evidence, but the old route of the Crab and Winkle Line, as it is known, has been opened up for pedestrians and cyclists and is popular with in enthusiasts and some tourists.

The other claim to fame is the Royal Whitstable Native Oyster.  Apparently, the fishing smacks have been dredging oysters here for around two thousand years, when the Romans liked them enough to have them shipped back to Italy.

The still trading Whitstable Oyster Company is known to go back as far as the 1400s, and had its heyday in the 1850s when oysters were a poor man's food and it was sending some eighty million a year to London's Billingsgate fish market.

However this wasn't to last.  By the second half of the last century the market was in a bad way.  In part it was due to some cold winters, the two world wars and a disastrous flood in 1953, but some have also attributed the problems to the decline of the oyster following the rising popularity of the prawn cocktail in the seventies!

Around the turn of the eighties, the owners of the company revitalized the oyster beds and opened up a fish restaurant which became highly successful.  Whitstable Native Oysters are once again popular, with the beds having been granted protected National Status by the European Union, and the restaurant helped to bring new custom to the town.

These days, Whitstable is a favourite destination for those wanting a break from the bright lights of London and the town has been regenerated.  There are art galleries and, as a pleasant change from most places, a number of small independent shops.  We particularly like the rather nice cheese shop and wine shop that have opened up on Harbour Street.

Interestingly, some of the small old shops, like an old fashioned outfitters and shoe shop seemed to have managed to keep going, although I am guessing the visitors are more likely to look at the newer shops with their pretty beach style goods or their fake retro.  I rather like the shop with the old fashioned style gentlemen's hair brushes, especially the tiny moustache combs.

And of course there are a number of new bars and restaurants to help cater for the influx of visitors.  One of the restaurants has a Michelin star, but we haven't managed to try that one yet and may not get to now we are on our rather more restricted travel budget.  But we have eaten at some of the others though and were particularly impressed by a place called Tea and Times.  We paid less than eight pounds each for a main meal that was very tasty both times we were there, and they let you bring a bottle of wine with no corkage charge.  They don't take credit cards, but then at those prices even we could manage the cash.

But my favourite thing about Whitstable hasn't changed and is never likely to; on the right day, you can get the most beautiful sunsets out over the sea.  When I commuted to London, it was always nice if I managed to see it from the train on the way home.  Unfortunately, I still haven't managed to get a photo of one yet, but when I do I will add it here.

Friday, May 25, 2012

Asuncion, and finally doing some sightseeing again

Having dragged ourselves kicking and screaming from the lovely hotel in Asuncion, we arrived at our hostel and settled in there. It was actually quite a nice hostel, with a lovely courtyard garden and the odd hummingbird visitor.

This time though we did make it out into the city, and with my back feeling quite a lot better, we wandered around the main squares, albeit in search of football again.

Nic wanted to watch the Liverpool -v- Chelsea league match, but the only place that we could find it on was a taxi rank in the street, and we couldn't stand there for the whole match so he had to do without.

Plaza Uruguay is a huge square with the old railway station in it.  Paraguay was the first place in South America to get trains, so the railways here were quite a big deal, but now there are very few in use.

We were a little disappointed that we weren't able to get the tourist train, which apparently is something out of the fifties, with actors doing sketches along the way.


We had read that in Asuncion we would find people keeping their animals in the streets.  We didn't see any evidence of that, and in fact it took us a while to realise it, but there weren't even any stray dogs around, which is a first for South America. But there is certainly a poorer side to Asuncion.  We spotted this before we even reached the square when we saw an obviously homeless woman squat down with her toilet paper at the side of the road.

Plaza Uruguay itself is somewhat down at heel, with some of the poor of the city living on one side of the square.  They do seem to be making some efforts to work on the square itself, but I have no idea whether they will do anything to house the people living there.

But we did spot one really quite simple thing that they could do in Asuncion to make the city seem more cared for and look better - learn to paint within the lines.  As we walked around, we saw the kerbs were painted white, which can look quite nice if done neatly.  But this looked like they had just walked along sloshing the paint out of the tin.  It was a complete mess, with paint splatters across the path, and made the place look slapdash.

A rather more impressive square was the Plaza Los Heroes, with it's very fancy bank building, and mausoleum for some of Paraguay's bigwigs.  The latter is an impressive building, and at night the dome is lit up in changing colours.  Nearby were the many market stalks selling the various souvenirs including the Ã±anduti, which is their intricate lacework.

I also like the buses, which like some other cities are old style and brightly coloured.