Ronda - bridges, baths and bullrings (Throwback post)

Ronda

Ronda is a pretty little town that is well up on the list of Spanish tourist destinations. People flock here to see the old architecture and, in particular, the rather impressive sight of the Puenta Nueva Bridge spanning the 100m chasm of the El Tajo Gorge.

Ronda

I suspect that the Facist-oriented Falangists, on the rebel Nationalists side in the Spanish Civil War, may not have been so keen on the view.  The Civil War, in 1936-39, saw the Nationalists rise up against the incumbent Republicans, with General Franco as their leader.

Ronda

Ronda

While the eventual winners, the Nationalists, are said to have killed significantly more people with ther 'policy of terror', it is rumoured that here in Ronda, the Republican side threw the Falangists off the cliffs. This was later included as a scene in Ernest Hemingway's For Whom The Bell Tolls.

The name Puenta Nueva, or New Bridge, is a little misleading these days, as it was actually constructed in 1793 to link together the two parts of the town on either side of the gorge. The north side has the newer area of town, while the south has La Ciudad, the older area.

Ronda

The older side is certainly worth wandering around. As you would expect, it has some of the more touristy shops, but a few nice ones too.

One in particular held our attention for a while, as it had a number of old wooden doors and window shutters for sale, some of which, like those that still remain on a few of the buildings, were beautiful.

We considered them, but sadly decided that the prices were too inflated, probably as a result of this being such a popular tourist destination.

Palacio Mondragon, Ronda

We took a look in the gardens of Palacio Mondragon, which were pleasant enough, and we have read that the house itself is supposed to be good too if you are there when it is open.

Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

There is also a rather nice square, called Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which has a convent, a couple of churches, and an unusually attractive council building.

Arab Baths, Ronda

Arab Baths, Ronda

If you can face the walk back up the hill, it is well worth walking down to the Arab Baths, a 13th century Moorish Hammam, that is very well preserved. We found the self guided tour interesting and informative.

Arab Baths, Ronda

Ronda

The other thing that we did here was a little more controversial for us. I have said in an earlier post that we are absolutely not fans of bullfighting, but we do recognise that it is an important aspect of life in Andalucia, and as such, it isn't something that we feel we can simply ignore. That is especially the case here, as Ronda is considered the birthplace of the modern corrida, or bullfight.

Bullring Museum, Ronda

It was here, in the early 1720's that bullfighter Fransisco Romero started both the use of the muleta (the red cape of a stick that is used towards the end of the fight to conceal the sword) and the practice of fighting the bull on foot, rather than on horseback.

The bull ring here is still used once a year for the Feria Goyesca, where they celebrate the bullfight and the works of Fransisco Goya, as participants dress in the style of clothes that were worn in his paintings. However for the rest of the year, the bullring is just a museum.

Bullring Museum, Ronda

So, despite our misgivings, we decided to visit the museum. It is actually quite good, although some of the information could be better. When you look at the costumes, artwork and other accoutrements of the sport, I can understand some of the appeal it has. The flamboyance and flair is undeniable, and were it not for the fact that they bleed, tease and kill a bull, I could probably quite enjoy it. But it does involve all of those things, so I remain firmly against it.

Bullring Museum, Ronda

Bullring Museum, Ronda

Bullring Museum, Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

Ronda

Ronda