Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Gaudi in Barcelona - La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
Gaudi’s main customers were the church and the Barcelona middle classes. This post includes his most famous religious building. A separate post covers two excellent residential buildings. In all these designs, it is clear how Gaudi was fascinated by geometry and nature; natural forms were often incorporated in his structural and/or ornamental work.


However, his styles were quite varied, even within one work. We can’t speak with any authority on the architectural influences, features or novelty of his work. Suffice to say, it still feels striking and, well, a bit weird.







La Sagrada Familia (current the on left, full design on the right), Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia must be the best-known of Gaudi’s works, albeit that its construction (to his original plans) seems never-ending.

It seems strange, looking at the plans, that it is already so big yet there is so much of the original design to go. In the picture (borrowed from the Gaudi book we bought) you can see that the four huge towers currently standing, are just those four small ones at the front in the full design.

Construction began in 1882, but Gaudi replaced the original architect after a year.

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
Gaudi lived to see the first bell tower finished in 1925, but a year later suffered a fatal tram accident, with under a quarter of the project finished. Three more bell towers were added by 1930. Reliance on private donations, and interruption by the Spanish Civil War, delayed construction until it began again, intermittently, in the 1950s.

You have to wonder when it will really be finished (especially the largest tower of all), albeit that 2026 is the target date (the centenary of Gaudi’s death).
La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


Grand, impressive, and very strange is how I would describe La Sagrada Familia. Both the inside and outside are striking. The external façade gives the impression that the stone is dripping, rather more suggestive of a gate into Hell. There are a lot of religious and natural details on the outside walls, which apparently have much symbolism but are lost on me.

Inside, the effect of the multi-coloured stained glass (dating only from 1999) is especially striking. We were lucky that the sun was out strongly during our visit, strengthening the impact of this glass. The interior is also notable for its stone columns, up to 21m high, many of which branch off as they reach the vaulted ceilings, like a dense indoor forest reaching its canopy.

The light stone columns and the angles they create scatter the light from the stained glass windows in different directions.


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

There were also a lot of details a lot to take in internally. The shapes and decoration were typically flowing Gaudi lines, not regular shapes. Some of the internal elements were more surprising to us. The heraldic shields on the columns just looked a bit too much like beer mats. There also seemed to be a paragliding crucifixion. And some of the steps reminded me of Escher. There was also a general lack of symmetry and cohesiveness, which may of course have been exactly the idea.
La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona






We bought timed tickets the day before to avoid a longer wait/queue; we heard that the waiting time when we went was 3 hours for those with no booking. The timed ticket process and the scale of the building itself helped it to not feel that overloaded inside, especially for such a tourist mecca. We didn’t appreciate when buying the tickets that audio guides had to be bought at the same time as the tickets, but getting the feel of the place was probably more important than hearing the details.










Park Guell, Barcelona



Park Guell, developed especially in 1900-1903 (and more over the next decade), is a bit out of the centre but the tourist bus goes right to the gate. Intended for private residences, Gaudi took a lot of inspiration for Park Guell from the British garden city idea, as an escape from the unhealthy industrial city - hence the English spelling ‘Park’.






Park Guell, Barcelona

The development never took off commercially, so in the end, Gaudi bought one of the two houses that had been built, and lived there from 1906-26. The building now contains the Gaudi house Museum, but we didn't go in there.

There are some quite different styles on show in the park, from the ‘classic Gaudi’ flowing lines and curves, such as on the benches around the large public square (which collects rain), to the Greek columns (some of them deliberately but strangely leaning) below the square, which channel the water into a tank to water the extensive gardens, and the Mudejar style from southern Spain.

Park Guell, Barcelona


Nature is also a common theme, including the salamander whose mouth serves as the overflow for the tank. Mosaics are common, but on one ceiling collage Gaudi goes beyond that to include bits of glasses, bottles and dolls! In good weather, and for fans of Gaudi, this is a pleasant visit, although there was a huge number of people taking photos of themselves to prove their presence, which made it harder to appreciate the main attractions sometimes.


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona




La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


Gaudi House Museum, Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona


Park Guell, Barcelona




Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona



Sunday, February 26, 2017

Barcelona - The city and the Grand Prix

Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona
We stayed for 7 nights in Barcelona, splitting our time about equally between seeing Gaudi’s designs (see separate blog posts), and other things - including the Spanish Grand Prix, our first Formula 1 race. Ignoring the Gaudi part, there is of course plenty enough to make a trip worthwhile.

We stayed in the L’Eixample area, on Calle Mallorca. It was a decent base for sightseeing, and certainly for an introduction to Gaudi, being a few blocks from Passeig de Gracia and a few in the other direction from La Segrada Familia. Tourist buses were close (the blue and red routes between them cover all the main sights), and there are 4 stops nearby on the extensive Metro.

The downside is that it’s not the liveliest area to go out/eat at night, but there are some places around. Also, rooms aren’t especially cheap, but that goes for Barcelona generally. Our ‘boutique hotel’ was fine, but not a patch on some we’ve stayed in using that term; still, the location mostly made up for that.

Barri Gotic, Barcelona


Despite the good public transport, walking around the different central areas of Barcelona helped to give the feel of each area and to see how they link together. We did quite a lot of walking - much of it in circles when trying to find our way around Barri Gotic. It was a great place for wandering, the streets behind the cathedral being especially atmospheric, albeit over-full of street buskers.

The cathedral itself is a gothic-lover’s dream, with extra Spanish touches. Strangely, many places in Barri Gotic seemed shut on both days that we were there – maybe due to the bank holiday – but we found a couple of decent bars: Carlos and Matilda (small, friendly, good cocktails, outside seats) and Ginger (cosy like an old library, had good vermouth).




Arc de Triomf, Barcelona



We only had a brief introduction to a few other areas. From L’Eixample down to Born was a decent walk, past the Arc de Triomf of 1888 and some grand buildings.

Born itself seemed very pleasant for relaxing in, although we didn’t get to do that as we were heading for the cathedral before closing time.




Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona


We also walked a fair way along Las Ramblas, which generally weren’t anything special. The main exception to this was a diverse and lively food market (Mercat de la Boqueria), which made it a shame that we’d already eaten plenty at brunch.

We certainly succeeded in our attempt to not see too many tourist sights on this trip, but there are many more for next time.

Las Ramblas, Barcelona


Whilst in town we saw the Spanish Grand Prix, billed as a big showdown of Hamilton and Rosberg, team-mates neck-and-neck at the top of the F1 drivers’ championship. So it was a big anti-climax when they crashed into each other on Lap 1 and went out before passing us even once!

We found it a bit hard to follow the race as the big screens were too far away (and of course you don’t get the TV commentary). We also saw almost no overtaking; we’d get tickets on the straight if we went to a race again. Still, it was fun to see the race unfold and watch the changing positions of the 4 leaders, and it was surprisingly not that loud, although the sun was baking in most seats (including ours).

In terms of places to eat and drink near our hotel, we mostly did quite well. The best place we ate on our stay was by accident, on day one: La Sopa Boba (Carrer del Bruc), a tapas place with much style and tasty food, and friendly staff who explained each dish; not like the many places that didn’t try that hard in food or service. We would have gone back but for bank holiday closures. Another time, hopefully!

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016
We had Tabitha’s birthday brunch in Jaime Beriestain (Carrer de Pau Claris), a combined café/restaurant and interiors store, doing food all day, including very tasty cakes, in a relaxed and classy atmosphere.

Cerveteria Catalana had good tapas and was very buzzy/popular (but, despite the name, a limited beer choice). Plaza Dr Latamendi was generally a relaxed place for nightlife, a bit less touristy, and we enjoyed an authentic and very tasty Argentinean meal there, at Pampero. Food and drink seems a suitable place to finish this blog, a lot of Barcelona being about relaxing, and that will certainly help to tempt us back again.

Barri Gotic, Barcelona
Barcelona
Barcelona


Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona

Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona


Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona


Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona
Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona



Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona
Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona
Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona



Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona

Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona





Barcelona


Drivers parade, Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Nic, Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016


The start, Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

The Finish, Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016

The winner, Max Verstappen, Barcelona Grand Prix, 2016