Off to Assisi .... no, make that Arezzo!

Piazza Grande, Arezzo

At the end of September 2016, we spent a week in Italy, with Nic's mum. She had expressed an interest in visiting Assisi, and as we had never been there or elsewhere in Umbria, we said that we would be happy to arrange it and accompany her.

We decided on September, so that it wouldn't be as hot or as busy as the height of summer, and booked a little apartment in Assisi. Our plan was to pick up a hire car at the airport in Florence, so that I could drive us around to some of the smaller towns and villages in the area.

Aside from my slight nervousness about driving in Italy - we've all heard the stories about scary Italian drivers after all - everything was looking good, until August, when a huge earthquake struck the region we were planning to go to.

Arezzo

The earthquake was devastating, killing about 300 people and decimating whole towns, including a number of those that we had planned to visit while we were there. We didn't want to cancel the trip entirely, but equally, we didn't want to be in the way of rescue and recovery efforts. That, together with the frequent and spreading aftershocks, suggested that a week’s stay in Assisi might not be best, so we decided to alter our plans a little.

Church of Sant' Agostino, Arezzo

We changed our base to Arezzo, in Tuscany, a short enough train ride away that we could still have a decent day trip to Assisi, and not far by train from Florence, so we no longer needed the hire car. So we were back on track.

And then I put my back out. Based on previous times that I had hurt my back, we figured that with a bit of luck, it would have healed sufficiently, so I still went. Getting there was something of a trial, with me leaning heavily on my wheely suitcase, with Nic having to take over every time it needed lifting, even just up or down a kerb. Between that and taking his mum's case whenever there was a flight of steps or a bigger lift to do, Nic got quite a workout!

City Walls, Arezzo

It was slow going, as I could only manage a snail's pace, but we got there in the end, and after settling in to our very nice flat, I edged my way back down the two large flights of stairs, and withy my walking pole put to good use as a walking stick, we crawled our way a couple of blocks to a nice little restaurant for dinner.

And that was as much as I got to see of Italy. By the time we got back from dinner, my back was so seized up and painful, that it was quite evident that I wouldn't be going anywhere soon, especially as I wanted my back to heal in time for our return journey, and more importantly, our next trip.

So for the rest of the trip, it was Nic and his mum on their own, while I was confined to the, thankfully very comfortable, flat. I didn't even manage to get an ice cream! At least, as Nic pointed out, we can go back to these places easily another time.

Arezzo Cathedral, Arezzo

Which means that the photos you will see are Nic's - yes, I trusted him with my fancy new camera - and he was in charge of the blog writing too. However, while he did a good job with the photos, his draft blog on Assisi only had one sentence about the Basilica, and spent more time talking about the pizza, so I have demoted him to just a contributor, and have reclaimed most of the writing!

Arezzo Cathedral, Arezzo

With everyone feeling a little tired after our travel day, and Nic being a little concerned about leaving me alone in the flat in my immobile state, he and his mum stuck to Arezzo the first day, rather than going any further afield. They left me nicely set up for the day, with things to eat and drink within easy reach, and set off into town.

Arezzo isn't huge, at least the main parts that you would want to see and use as a tourist. We had chosen it partly for its good transport links and also because it also seemed to have some character in the form of a central medieval area. And it didn't disappoint in terms of its historic character. It doesn’t have the not-know-where-to-look-nextness - Nic assures me that this is a proper word! - of the first tier of Italian tourist cities, but it is also slower, less crowded and feels more focussed on locals than tourists. It is also likely somewhat cheaper, and still has plenty enough places to eat and drink.

Arezzo

We were staying in the lower area of Arezzo, near to the train station, so to get to the main attractions, you follow the slopes upwards. They couldn't get into the old roman amphitheatre, as it was closed, but spent a leisurely few hours wandering Arezzo's narrow streets, with the useful tourist map of major sights in hand, punctuated by lunch.

Sadly, a lot of the medieval centre was destroyed in World War II, but there is certainly still enough here to be impressive, perhaps because, as a goldsmithing town, it was once one of the wealthiest in Tuscany.

Piazza Grande, Arezzo

Arezzo has quiet and shady lanes to explore without crowds, as well as the main shopping and eating areas amidst the old buildings of the centre.


Its main square, the Piazza Grande, is highly unusual, as it has a pronounced slope, which is apparently designed to drain the water when it rains. They had lunch there, which was surprisingly good considering the location, and the restaurant seemed to have far more locals there to pass the time (slowly) than it did tourists.

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo

After lunch, they walked up to the top of the city where, over the city walls, we could see olive groves and the landscape beyond. Arezzo Cathedral sits on top of the hill. Although it was started in the 1300s, it took around two hundred years to complete, and even then, they didn't add the bell tower until the twentieth century.

The 12th century Church of Santa Maria della Pieve is the oldest of the churches, having been renovated in the thirteenth century, but with some aspects dating back to 1216. It has an impressive façade, and an interesting bell tower, which dates to 1330.

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo

Throw in a number of attractive towers dotting the skyline and more than a few decent churches to dip into - mostly quick visits unless you like the art a lot - and you have a pleasant but not over-taxing day. It would be a fine day trip for those staying within easy reach and wanting a less hectic place.

 

Piazza Grande, Arezzo

Arezzo Cathedral, Arezzo

Arezzo Cathedral, Arezzo

Arezzo

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo

Church of San Michele, Arezzo

Arezzo

Arezzo