Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Saturday, March 12, 2016

Kyoto - Tea ceremony in Higashiyama-ku and Miyako Odori in Gion

Kyoto
Kyoto
Higashiyama-ku is one of the oldest and best preserved parts of Kyoto and, despite being quite crowded, is a lovely area to wander around and poke around in the shops.

There is of course a pagoda, the Yasaka Pagoda, and it is close to a number of temples, but we were there for the general area and to do a tea ceremony.


Kyoto
Kyoto
Kyoto
Having spent some time researching the various tea ceremonies on offer, we had opted for one that was well recommended, and though obviously intended for tourists, was a smaller, less tour group style.

Camellia Tea Ceremony, Kyoto
We did it at the Camellia tea house, and thought it was an excellent introduction to the long and intricate process of making the matcha tea.

Our host showed a small group of us into the room, with its traditional tokonoma, a display alcove that has carefully selected pieces of decorative art or floral displays, which are part of the artistic and cultural nature of the ceremony. When we had all  comfortably settled ourselves on to the tatami mats, she started the rituals.

Camellia Tea Ceremony, Kyoto
The tea ceremony is not so much about drinking tea, as about the aesthetic tradition of preparing the tea for the guests and admiring the artefacts in the room and, very importantly, the quality of the tea bowl. Every item is placed and used in a very specific and artistic way. Our host explained the process to us first, so that we understood the steps and methods, then performed the ceremony.

Camellia Tea Ceremony, Kyoto
The rituals were clear throughout: the careful folding of the fukusa, a square piece of silk used to wipe the utensils; the three slow and rhythmic taps of the hishaku, or ladle, used to add the water; the elegant and slow whisking of the tea with the father beautiful looking chasen, a whisk made from a single piece of bamboo; through to the final precision placement of the chawan, or tea bowl, to ensure that the decoration is at the correct position when handed to the guest.

Camellia Tea Ceremony, Kyoto
The guest given the tea first is the person seated in front and to the left of the the host, which in this case was Nic, so he had both the honour of receiving the tea, and the responsibility of remembering to turn the bowl a quarter turn to avoid drinking from the front.

After the formal ceremony was complete, we all had a go at making our own tea. They also gave us a very tasty little sweet.



Kyoto
Nearby Gion is the Geisha area, with streets like Hanami-koji, that is full of well preserved traditional wooden machiya merchant houses.
Machiya Houses, Kyoto
The machiya houses are very narrow and long, due to the old system of taxing properties based on the size of their street frontage. Many of these are now restaurants, or the up market ochaya (tea rooms) where the Geisha entertain their clients.
Kyoto



Miyako Odori, Kyoto
Miyako Odori, Kyoto








It is possible to do general Geisha thing at Gion Corner, where they have shows that give you a taste of Geisha activities like music, dance and flower arranging.

But if you are in Kyoto in April, as we were, you can go one better and get tickets for the Miyako Odori.

The Miyako Odori is a one hour performance of music and dance, by Maiko and Geiko.



Miyako Odori, Kyoto
Miyako Odori, Kyoto
The ticket includes a tea ceremony performed by a Geiko and assisted by a Maiko first, and then the show.











Miyako Odori, Kyoto
Miyako Odori, Kyoto




Miyako Odori, Kyoto
Miyako Odori, Kyoto


The venue also has some of the stunning Geiko kimono displayed.


Miyako Odori, Kyoto
You also have the opportunity to look around the gardens, which are quite pretty; Nic was even persuaded to do a Japanese style pose with the blossom!

Miyako Odori, Kyoto








Miyako Odori, Kyoto

Miyako Odori, Kyoto




Miyako Odori, Kyoto
The show itself has eight scenes, each showing scenes or little tales that depict the seasons of the year.

Miyako Odori, Kyoto
Sadly no photos were allowed, and my effort at sneaking one was pretty rubbish, so I have included a photo from the leaflet.


Kyoto
Another area close by, is Shirakawa which runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijo Avenue.


Kyoto
The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. There are more cherry blossom trees here too, as well as a few cranes, so it attracts locals dressed up for photos, and even a few newlyweds having their wedding photos taken


Kyoto



Kyoto
Kyoto


Kyoto

Kyoto



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