Tokyo: Senso-ji Temple and the Sanja Matsuri

Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

We timed our stay in Asakusa to hit the first two days of the Sanja Matsuri (festival) at the Sensoji Temple.

Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

We couldn't stay for the third day as that was when we had to go up to Nikko for the archery festival, but I think we got the feel of the event nonetheless.

Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The Sanja Matsuri is held every year to celebrate the three founders of the Sensoji Temple, and attracts around two million visitors.

Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The story goes that, in 628, two fishermen brothers, Hinokuma Hamanari and Hinokuma Takenari, fished a statue of the Kannon, the goddess of mercy, out of the Sumida River. They put it back, but it kept returning to them.

When the village chief, Hajino Nakamura, saw the statue, he recognised its importance, and converted his own house into a Buddhist temple to house it. The Sensoji Temple was completed in 645, making it the oldest temple in Tokyo.

Kaminarimon Gate, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The are other buildings on the grounds. The Shinto Asakusa Shrine, built in 1649 by Tokugawa Iemitsu, is next door, and there is a five story pagoda and a main hall, both of which are newer rebuilds after they were destroyed.

One of the most impressive elements is the outer gate, the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate, with its huge lanterns.

Nakamise-dori, Tokyo

The 200m walkway that leads from the Kaminarimon to the inner Hozomon, or Treasure House, Gate, is the Nakamise-dori, which is a centuries old shopping street. The little shops here sell a mix of good and tacky souvenirs, foods and other goods. They are worth having a look in - just not on the festival days!

Hozomon Gate, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The first day of the festival, Friday, is the Daigyoretsu parade, with priests, officials and geisha, accompanied by musicians and dancers, who wear Edo period costumes.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

One of our favourite groups was the dancers dressed as cranes.

When the parade arrives at the temple, there is a Shinto ceremony in the Asakusa Shrine, where they pray for an abundant harvest and prosperity.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The Binzasara Mai dance seeks the same, accompanied by musicians playing the binzasara, which is an instrument made from strips of bamboo.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The second day is when the neighbourhood mikoshi, or portable shrines are carried to the temple to be blessed. This is quite crazy to watch. We found a nearby shrine, and saw them getting ready to take the mikoshi to Sensoji, and then carry it in.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

The shrines may be portable, but they are still pretty heavy, and it takes quite a few of them to carry it. Just as well it is such a popular thing to do - there are a lot of volunteers. Some also have shrines for ladies to carry, and even mini shrines for the kids.

Around a hundred shrines are brought to the temple, and it is great to see them all arrive. If carrying them isn't enough, they also will jolt the shrine up and down every so often, as doing so is said to intensify the power of its Gods.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

We noticed one particular shrine was getting a lot of attention as it arrived, as was the man who was awaiting it. It was him that gave us the clue as to why this one was so interesting - he was covered in tattoos. This could only mean that he was a member of the Yakusa, or bōryokudan, the huge Japanese organised crime syndicate, and it was their shrine arriving.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Had we been here for day three, we would likely have been struggling to catch a glimpse of the main event, because so many locals are jostling to participate, that there is little or no room for onlookers. The three main mikoshi, to the founders, are carried from their home in the Asakusa Shrine, down Nakamise-dori and then split up and carried around the neighbourhoods.

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Yakusa, Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Sanja Matsuri, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo