Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label Alcazaba. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alcazaba. Show all posts

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Granada - The Alhambra (Throwback post)

So I said before that I worry when coming to places this well known and this hyped, that they will not live up to expectations. That certainly was not the case here. In fact, I had no idea just how much there is here and how truly beautiful it is.

We had booked our main tickets in advance, which wasn't so important at this time of year, but is still sensible, and is essential in the peak season. However we decided we would go twice, one during the day, and once at night. If you have the time, I would highly recommend it, as you get a completely different feel in the light and the dark.

We happened to go to the evening one first, and I think this worked well. You get to feel the atmosphere at night more, which gives you a better first impression and there are significantly fewer people here with you.

Also, whereas in the day, it is a one way route through the palace, in the evening, you only see the main areas, so you go out the way you came in. This is particularly good if you are looking to take photos, as it not only gives you the chance to go back when areas are at their emptiest for photos, it also means that you have a good chance to think about what photos you might want when you go during the day, so you know where to focus your time.

Sadly, my little point and shoot, combined with my lack of camera skills and no tripods allowed, meant that my photos are great, especially the night ones, but I can promise you that the images in my head are wonderful.

There have been buildings at the Alhambra since around the 9th century, but the citadel and palaces that we would recognise today, were started in 1238 by Al Ahmar, the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty.
The complex is huge, so do leave yourself plenty of time for the daytime visit. The main famous bit is the Nasrid Palace, with its stunning carved walls and ceilings, and lovely courtyard. But there are other palaces, the Alcazaba, the Generalife, and a host of smaller bits to look at too.

You can roam around most of it at leisure - the only specifically timed entry is that to the Nasrid Palace itself, so you need to think about when you want to do that when you book your tickets. We went up to the top, to the Generalife first. This is a Muslim Palace in a villa style and is impressive in itself, especially with the lovely formal gardens surrounding it.

From there, we headed down to the main complex, and went into the Alcazaba, the fort where the royal guard were stationed to protect the citadel and palaces. Then we were about the right time to join the queue to get into the Nasrid Palace for our allotted time slot, and we did the remaining bits afterwards.

I'm not going to tell you about all of the rooms and so forth, because I can't remember all of it and you really should go to see it yourself.

To be honest, I wasn't even that interested in a lot of the information at the time, I was far too busy just taking in all of the beautiful workmanship. If you have even the vaguest liking for this kind of style or skilled craft, then there just aren't enough superlatives to describe it.




































Thursday, July 21, 2016

Malaga - the cultural side (Throwback post)

Bull Ring, Malaga
The main sightseeing thing that we did in Malaga was to see the Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Although in general the weather wasn't all that good for our time in Spain, though it was still considerably better than the UK, here in Malaga it was very hot and sunny, which made for a tiring climb.

We did the Castillo first, to get the walk up hill out of the way before it got even hotter. At least along the way, the vistas of the city and out to see were good. We got an excellent view of the bull ring.


Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga
The site had long been  in use even before Abd al Rahman III, Caliph of Cordoba, built the first castle here in 929. Its name, Gibralfaro, comes from the Arabic and Greek words gebel and faro, meaning rock of the lighthouse, because of the old Phoenician lighthouse that already stood here.
Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga
In 1340, the Nasrid King Yusuf I strengthened the castle to provide better protection to the Alacazaba below. It was considered the most impregnable fort, and in 1487 was the site of a three month siege when the Catholics invaded the area. They didn't get in, but eventually hunger forced those inside to surrender, and Ferdinand was victorious. This was reputed to have been the first conflict where both sides used gunpowder.

Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga
Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga
Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga
Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga



Casillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga

Alcazaba, Malaga
Back down the hill, is the Alcazaba, the oldest in Spain, and better preserved than that in Granada. It was built on top of roman remains and you can see the old amphitheatre at the bottom of the hill.
Alcazaba, Malaga

Accounts of who built what and when seem to vary, but broadly, it seems it was started by Abd al Rahman I, the first Emir of Cordoba in 756-780, and added to by the Sultan of Granada, Badis Al Ziri in 1057-63. The building was further adapted after Muhammed II Ben Al Ahmer took control in 1279.
Alcazaba, Malaga

Regardless, it is an impressive citadel, and whilst of course it is not a patch on the Alhambra, as we were to discover in our next stop, it is very much worth a visit.








Alcazaba, Malaga
Alcazaba, Malaga






Alcazaba, Malaga

Wine Museum, Malaga
We managed to get ourselves along to a couple of museums too. One was a museum of wine, which was OK, but not that interesting.

We did, however, very much enjoy the Museo del Vidrio y Cristal, or the Glass Museum. It is a little out of the way, housed in an 18th century merchant house bought and restored specifically to house the owner's huge private collection of glass.

Gonzalo Fernandez-Prieto is the owner, along with British professor Ian Phillips, and it was he that showed us around. His tour is part of the attraction, as he is passionate and humorous about his collection. He is proud of his aristocratic heritage, but at the same time, happy to tell us about getting himself into financial difficulties when he just had to buy another piece of glass.

Glass Museum, Malaga
His collection here numbers around 3000 pieces, and that isn't even all of it. He has stained glass windows - British, because apparently we were the very best at that, art glass, drinking glasses and all sorts besides.

It is beautifully displayed, with the house fully furnished with antiques. Apparently there was something important about the piano, which is why he insisted he should take our photo next to it, but I can't remember what.

Even if you're not especially interested in glass, this is a great museum - the enthusiasm and joviality of the owner makes it so.