Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria (Throwback post)

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

From Vancouver we took the ferry and bus over to Vancouver Island, and to its main town of Victoria. Had we been able to drive here, it would have been great to tour around the island more, but as it was, we were quite content to spend a month enjoying the laid back vibe and, compared to most places in the US and Canada, the plethora of local produce.  More on that in another post.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

We were staying in an Airbnb, which was really more of a B&B, in a lovely large old house in Rockland, overlooking Craigdarroch Castle. The castle was built between 1887 and 1890 for the wealthy Scottish 'Coal King' industrialist, Robert Dunsmuir.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Having made his fortune in coal and then railroads, in the Nanaimo area, Dunsmuir became a Legislative Assembly Member, and moved to Victoria  to take up the post, and building himself  a castle to underscore  his status.

Unfortunately he never saw the castle completed, as he died in 1889, with his will triggering years of family feuding, as he left everything to his wife Joan.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

The sons, James and Alex had to wait ten years before their mother signed over the businesses to them, at which time Alex finally married his partner of twenty years, only to die from conditions related to his alcoholism on his honeymoon six weeks later.

This sparked more rows over his will, with the mother eventually suing son James, who was by then Premier of British Columbia, and creating a huge family division.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

The daughters had their share of issues too, including one, Kathleen being killed in the London Blitz, and another, Dola, who was rumoured, scandalously at the time, to have been in a lesbian relationship with actress Tallulah Bankhead.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

But the family aside, the castle is quite impressive. It was built in the Richardson Romanesque style, complete with turrets, and had many excellent stained-glass windows, including one that is finished with gemstones incorporated into it.

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

There are also some great bits of furniture and artefacts on show, including a fascinating but somewhat macabre, floral display made from human hair, presumably from a deceased relative as a mourning piece.

Hair, Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria

Governor's House, Victoria

The other main building in the area, was the Governor's House. We couldn't go inside there, except to peek in the door, but the gardens are worth a walk around.

Governor's House, Victoria

We do try to keep up with at least the main UK news during our travels, but our visit here did cause us to wonder if we had missed the death of The Queen, as the flag was flying at half mast. Of course it wasn't her, but instead some past Governor.

Governor's House, Victoria

The gardens and parklands are also home to a number of deer. We didn't see any during our visit, but did spot a couple in some streets a little way off a few days later.

Governor's House, Victoria

Governor's House, Victoria

Governor's House, Victoria

Deer, Rockland, Victoria

Giant Torii Gate at Miyajima

Miyajima

From Hiroshima, we took the train and ferry to the island of Miyajima, to see the Itsukushima Shrine and its famous Torii Gate.

Miyajima

Miyajima would be quite a nice, if hilly, island to explore anyway, with its primeval forest, ropeway, and multiple temples.

Unfortunately, it rained almost all the time we were here, and being the fairweather travellers that we are, we didn't fancy getting that wet.



Miyajima

We did visit the rather pretty five storey pagoda, and the Toyokuni Shrine next door. The Shrine is also known as Senjokaku, which means '1000 Tatami Mats Hall', and was built in 1587, as a library to hold Buddhist Sutras.

Miyajima

However it seems that, following the death of Hideyoshi Toyokuni, the building was never completed, as there are no walls and the wooden structure has never been painted; actually the unpainted, and now weathered finish, looks good.

 

 

Miyajima

The structure was converted to a Shinto Shrine during the Meiji period, and contains a number of large decorated votive boards, and well as lots of rice paddles, some of which are pretty big. Not the largest rice paddle in the world though, that honour is held by the especially large one kept in the town, but I seem to have lost my photo of it. Why all the rice paddles? Apparently this was where they were invented.

There are more deer here too, though they ask you not to feed them, so they're not as friendly. There will still try to steal any paper to eat that though, so careful of your maps. Not sure why deer like eating paper, but they do.

 

Miyajima

The main attraction though, is the Itsukushima Shrine. It is quite an impressive shrine, with multiple rooms, including a Noh stage, but the main factor is its setting. With the forest behind it, and the sea out to the front, with piers going out over the water, it looks pretty good. The vermillion colour is said to keep evil spirits away.

Miyajima

Then you add the huge 16m tall Torii Gate, that stands off in the water. Needless to say, this is a great photo opportunity, and local photographers have taken full advantage of it by setting up benches for group photos, with the gate in the background and, if they're lucky, the added extra of a couple of deer.

There has been a torii gate here since 1168, although this current one was built in 1875. At low tide, locals also come out to collect shellfish; we certainly saw lots of little crabs.

Miyajima

You can also walk out to the base of the gate, and see where people press coins into the base and make a wish. Mind you don't get your feet wet though.

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Miyajima

Nara - a deer little city

Nara

No, I haven't failed on my spelling, Nara really is all about the deer. There are around 1,200 deer roaming freely about the city - usually keeping to the parks and temples rather than the main town area, but they have been known to stray sometimes. Believed in Shinto to be messengers of the Gods, they are protected and have been designated a national treasure.

Nara

They are rather cute, though you do have to watch out for some of them. People feed them, so some can be quite determined in demanding food, and some will steal anything that they think might be edible.

Nara

We noticed a number of people having their maps snatched from out of their hands and being eaten. Not sure how tasty they are, but they were soon polished off.

Most though are quite docile and friendly. They sell special deer biscuits in the parks, which are rather better for them than maps, and many of the deer will happily take these from your hand.

Nara

It is quite amusing to watch the deer around the sellers. They clearly know that they aren't supposed to try to get biscuits from the seller, but sometimes can't seem to help themselves. the vendors look pretty grumpy when they persist, but we did see a couple cave and give them the broken ones.

Nara

If you don't want to be followed and pestered, keep the biscuits out of sight in your pocket or bag, and just take them out one at a time to give out.

Some of the deer have even learned the art of politeness from their Japanese neighbours, and will bow their heads to you as a request for a biscuit. How could you possibly say no to that?

Nara

Nara

Nara

Nara

Nara

Kofukuji Temple, Nara

Of course Nara isn't just about the deer. Nara, then called Heijo, was the first capital city of Japan, way back in 710. That didn't last too long though as the government feared a threat from the powerful Buddhist monasteries based here, and moved the capital away in 784. But whilst it may have lost its political importance, it was still an important religious area, and it has the temples to show for it.

Kofukuji Temple, Nara

Close to where we were staying, was the Kofukuji Temple, with a rather fabulous 50m tall pagoda, the second largest in Japan. It was first built in 730, but like some many places in this country of earthquakes, it was rebuilt in 1426.

There is some construction work underway here, as they are in the process of rebuilding the long lost Golden Central Hall, (due to be finished in 2018,) not to be confused with the smaller Golden Eastern Hall that is still standing. We didn't go into it, but apparently, if you an pull yourselves away from the deer, the National Treasure Museum has some impressive Buddhist pieces.

Kofukuji Temple, Nara

The surrounding parks are well worth a wander around as you find your way to some of the other sites. We will visit the Todaijo Temple and the Kasuga Shrine in the news posts, but there are also the impressive Nandaimon Gate, the National Museum, and a few gardens to see if you want to.

Nara

Nara

Nara

Nara

Nara

Nandaimon Gate, Nara

Nandaimon Gate, Nara

Nara