Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label desert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label desert. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Qatar - A tale of two deserts

Zekreet, Desert, Qatar
As much of Qatar is desert, it would have been wrong to come here and not see some of it, especially as our friends here were perfectly happy to take us out - and had the necessary 4WD car. So during our stay, we made two trips out to very different desert landscapes.









Desert, Qatar


The first area was up to the north of the peninsula, where the desert is far from the sand dunes and occasional oasis that you might typically think of, but rather a kind of scrubby and stony landscape.


It makes for a slow drive in some places, as the stones can fly up fairly wildly if you take it too fast.



Desert, Qatar


There isn't a huge amount to see in between the specific sites, but we did manage to find a few nice flowers, saw numerous oddly shaped mounds, where sand has gathered into a more permanent ridges and then been eroded, and of course there are the odd oil pipelines running across, which you have to take your chance to cross when you can.





East-West/West-East, Desert, Qatar
Our first stop was to see a piece of art. No, I'm not kidding, there really is an artwork out here in the desert. It is called East-West/West-East, and it is a series of four huge great slabs of steel that, according to the artist, Richard Serra, represent the connection between the state's two regions.

Nic would never forgive me if I didn't tell you that this was commissioned by the Emir's sister.
The need to tell you this isn't because she is apparently regarded as one of the most influential people in the art world, but rather because he is amused by the combination of her name and title - Sheikha Mayassa; say it aloud if it doesn't hit you straight away!


East-West/West-East, Desert, Qatar
It is certainly art on an impressive scale, and I liked the way that the steel is intentionally being allowed to weather and rust. I was less impressed that, even out here, on a piece of artwork, people have graffitied it. Whether or not I would have worked out it was supposed to be art, had I just come out here without knowing and seen it, I'm not sure. There is a reasonable chance that I would just have wondered why they were building a big bridge here, and why they stopped after putting in the uprights. But then I am a bit of a philistine when it comes to art!

Film City, Desert, Qatar
Our next stop was very different, but equally strange. In the midst of the desert, there is a recreation of a small Arabic settlement, complete with palm trees.

This is Film City. there are various tales about how and why it came to be, but the one we are going with, is that it was built for filming of the Transformers film, but was never used.

Film City, Desert, Qatar














Film City, Desert, Qatar






We popped in and took a wander around, just out of curiosity, but it was far too hot to stay for long, and we were soon on our way again.








Zekreet, Desert, Qatar


The rest of our stops were more what you might expect to find out here, the remains of villages and forts. The first was the remains of Zekreet Fort, with numerous stone towers on the eroded limestone rocks. There are also the remains of madabes, where they used to press the dates.







Al Jumail, Desert, Qatar

One of my favourite stops, was Al Jumail, the ruins of a pearl diving and fishing village that was likely in use in the 19th and 20th centuries, but fell out of use once the oil industry started.

This was a great place to wander around, looking at what was left of the village, including the shells that are built in to some of the walls.






Al Jumail, Desert, Qatar




The best remains are of the mosque, which you can walk through, and where the lovely round minaret still stands.








Al Jumail, Desert, Qatar
  
Al Jumail, Desert, Qatar

Al Zubarah, Desert, Qatar
Our last stop was the Al Zubarah Fort, which was built in 1938, to be either a coastguard station or a police station, depending on which accounts you believe. It is now a museum, with a few interesting exhibits about the history of the place as a once busy and prosperous pearl diving and trading town.

The town itself is only ruins, but there is an archaeological dig going on to see what they can learn about it. Unfortunately, the site was closed, so we couldn't go and see that.
Al Zubarah, Desert, Qatar

Al Zubarah, Desert, Qatar


 
Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar
The second trip out was to the southern desert, which was rather more what you might expect. And just as well, because the reason that we were going was to drive over the sand dunes. Well I say drive - in this case, we went with a Qatari guy, who was less likely to get himself stuck in the sand than we were. And that is a real risk, as evidenced by the number of bits of vehicle that we saw scattered amongst the dunes.
Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar

Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar
















Now, I've been sand duning before in a buggy type thing and I've been sandboarding, but for some reason, going over the dunes in a car - albeit a 4WD  - seemed less safe than either of the other two methods.

I don't know if it is just because I'm used to cars being in a road, or because you're higher up so seem like the centre of gravity is too high, or what, but it just felt like we were more likely to end up rolling down the dune instead of driving down it.




Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar



That isn't to say that I didn't enjoy it; it was great fun. slightly unnerving when you could, at times, feel the sand sliding out from under you, but still fun.

It was quite nice that there was a second vehicle with us too, as watching them slither down the dunes, and knowing that this was what we were doing, was quite fun too.



Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar


This area of Qatari desert is one of only about thirty places in the word that has singing sand dunes. Never heard of singing sand dunes? Neither had we.

Apparently, it is a combination of low humidity and the way the wind blows across the dunes, that creates a strange sort of humming sound. The sound can be made more audible by moving across them, and we could definitely hear them in places on our drive.



Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar






Overall, two great - and very different - journeys out into the desert.





Sand duning, Southern Desert, Qatar


Tuesday, September 13, 2011

San Pedro de Atacama


Drive from Salta to San Pedro

We left Salta with another early start, this time at 5:40am.  We drove for about fourteen hours to cover the 550km to San Pedro in the Chilean Atacama Desert.  It was a hard drive, not helped by having to spend an hour at the border to get out of Argentina and, over an hour’s drive later, a further hour at the border getting into Chile.  And as we crossed the Andes, on roads that wound their way up the mountains to an altitude of 4170 metres above sea level, some of the group started to feel the effects of the climb, with a couple being quite unwell.  Thankfully most of us only had a dry mouth, a bit of a headache and a realisation that any exertion at altitude can leave you quite breathless.
Drive from Salta to San Pedro


And for those of us that weren’t ill, the altitude effects, the long drive and the tedious border crossings paled into insignificance because the journey was just so beautiful.  For me, the most amazing thing in this journey, and also across the days that followed, was the variation in the type of scenery that we passed.
Drive from Salta to San Pedro



We started out going past vast barren areas with huge rock formations in oranges, reds, greens and yellows.  We stopped for lunch at the side of a road in an area that seemed completely uninhabited and uninhabitable, until we peered over the edge and spotted a little group of homes and people planting out crops. 
Drive from Salta to San Pedro



After a while the cacti started to appear, as we wound our way up, past remnants of snow and ice, to 4170 metres above sea level.
Salt flats in Argentina



Then as we dropped back down the mountains, we reached some salt flats.  We stopped here to use the toilets and admire the building made out of blocks of salt, complete with salt tables and benches.
Drive from Salta to San Pedro



The next stage was vast flat areas, covered in yellow grasses, but still with the mountains as a backdrop, and then gradually we hit the dusty desert region.

Drive from Salta to San Pedro

In the long hill climb between the two borders, with Cameron toiling on up, we came across a truck that had given up the battle.  We stopped to help the Chilean soldiers on board and gave them a tow to the top of the hill.  Dave declared this to be good karma, and indeed it was rewarded with a bottle of dark rum.  Cap Time was immediately declared!

Drive from Salta to San Pedro

  

 We finally got to San Pedro de Atacama at about 8:30 pm, needing to put up our tents.  Thankfully we had all agreed that going out for a meal was far more sensible than cooking for ourselves, so having got the tents up we headed into the tiny town.


San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

As the jump off point for desert trips, San Pedro is obviously a tourist base, and there is a lot of growth, but they have made a good effort to keep the main street looking traditional.  The restaurants were mostly cavern type rooms dug out slightly lower than ground level, with open fires and benches, and full of atmosphere.  The food was good and cheap.  I had a huge empanada for £4:50 and only just finished it.

Atacama Desert, Chile


We had some time free the next morning before we took our trip to the desert, and everyone headed off back into town to shop for our next meals, to eat more, or just to take in the town. No-one elected to stay at the campsite, probably because there was something of a smell of sewage that strangely no-one really took to!
 
Atacama Desert, Chile




In the afternoon we went into Moon Valley to see the desert.  We were only a little way in, but still we saw some impressive sand dunes and the Tres Marias rocks that were formed 25,000 years ago, just from the wind and sand erosion 
Atacama Desert, Chile



Atacama Desert, Chile

 
   
Atacama Desert, Chile

As it got later we climbed the rack to the top of one of sand dunes to watch the sunset.  It wasn’t the best sunset, but still it was a good sight.

Atacama Desert, Chile
Back in the town, we once again avoided spending any extra time on site and went for a meal.  This time we ended up in a place that had a DJ playing a lot of 70s and 80s music, so a lively evening to round off our time in San Pedro.

Atacama Desert, Chile


  
Atacama Desert, Chile