The home of Coca-Cola

As well as the more serious things to see, Atlanta is also the birthplace of The Real Thing, so it didn't seem right to be there without visiting the World of Coca-Cola.

Pharmacist John Pemberton invented the Coca-Cola syrup back in 1886, selling it in the nearby Jacobs Pharmacy, mixed with carbonated water, for five cents a glass.  The name was the work of his partner Frank Robinson.  John didn't keep the business that long though, and by 1891 it primarily was in the hands of businessman Asa Candler.

Candler made Coca-Cola a hit by giving branded goods to the pharmacists that carried his soda fountains, and by giving out free tasting coupons. By 1895, the drink was selling so well, he had syrup manufacturing plants in Dallas, Los Angeles and Chicago.

But while he may have been good at selling the drink, he wasn't too clever when it came to packaging it.  Someone else suggested putting it in bottles, but he ignored the idea, and in 1899 he sold the rights to bottle and sell Coca-Cola to  some lawyers from Chatanooga for just one dollar.

Now more easily available in its bottles, Coca-Cola was doing well in the States, but when Robert Woodruff took the helm in 1923, he took it global.  He linked the brand with the Olympic Games, starting a tradition that continues today, and when the USA entered World War II, he declared that every man in uniform gets a bottle of Coca-Cola for five cents, no matter where he is or how much it costs to send it there.  I'm not sure how often by we're supposed to get that Coca-Cola, or whether they all did, but it was a good bit of marketing.

By the 1960's there were bottling plants in many different countries.  And by this time it wasn't just Coca-Cola.  In the 1950s they introduced Fanta and then in the 1960s, Sprite was the first of a few new drinks to come in.

In the 1980s there were two more changes; the first, Diet Coke, proved almost as popular as Coca-Cola itself, but the other, New Coke, was not so well received.  People didn't like this new improved taste and they got their way - it reverted to the classic recipe after just a couple of months.

In time, bottling plants popped up across the globe, and more drinks were introduced.  They now have over 500 brands of drink being sold around the world, including iced teas and even a soup in Japan.  And that number doesn't take into account diet variations and the different flavours available within each brand.

In the World of Coca-Cola, there is a Taste it room, where you can taste all of the brands grouped by the continent they are sold in.  We tried a tiny bit of them all.  Most were OK, some weren't OK, and some were good, but there was one that was really horrible.

I won't tell you what it was called, as I don't want to spoil the surprise in case you go, but I will say it was from Italy.  After disliking it so much ourselves, we stood and watched others try it and almost everyone had the same reaction.

There was also an area where you can try the multitude of variations of the big Coca-Cola brands, Coke, Fanta and Sprite.  These include not only things like the cherry and vanilla flavours that we are familiar with, but also raspberry, orange and many other options.  Personally, I still like plain and simple Coke.

But it isn't all just about trying the drinks here.  There is a lot of memorabilia and old merchandising on display, you can have your photo taken with the Coke polar bear, and you can see the bottling process at work.  They also let you in to see the very secure vault where the secret recipe for coke is safely locked away.

This is never going to be the most intellectual of museums, or the most varied, but it was all a bit of fun, and the tasting of the different drinks sold on the different continents was interesting.  And I rather liked the huge decorated coke bottles that are dotted around the place.

You can certainly drink your fill of Coke and other products while you are there if you wish, and at the end you get a little bottle of Coca-Cola to take away too.

Meeting a part of Atlanta history

The segregation and civil rights movements are such comparatively recent history that of course it is the case that some of the older people that we pass in the streets would have lived through those times.  We heard a woman in Alabama (we'll get there in a posting soon) say that she was a child during the bus protests, for example.  But usually you don't get to know what people have seen or done, as you just don't speak to them.

But in Atlanta we did meet someone who was a part of a significant development in racial integration.

Fire Station 6, which is just down the road from the King's old home, was opened on 31 May 1894, and stayed operational until 1991.  It was later redeveloped into a museum which has a few old artifacts including a 1927 American LaFrance Metropolitan Pumper Hose Car fire engine.

The link to Martin Luther King is nothing more than proximity, but the station does have its own little bit of civil rights history, as in 1963 this was the first Atlanta fire station to integrate black firefighters into what was previously an all white station.

The sixteen black men did not always have an easy time of it, but the station chief was behind the desgregation and ensured that any issues were dealt with .  How do I know that?  Because one of those original sixteen integrated firefighters was there at the station when we visited.

Bill Callier had been a firefighter at station 16, an all black fire station, but had volunteered to make the move to station 6.  He transferred on 21 November 1963, the day before the Kennedy assassination.  He talked briefly to us about his experience, which he described as generally very positive because of the commitment of his bosses to the integration scheme, and their willingness to act when problems arose.

It was fascinating to meet Bill and hear about such a key time in the Atlanta fire department.  He later left the fire department and moved on to the MARTA transportation system and managed the provision of transport for the Atlanta Olympics, but now that heis retired, he is back at Fire Station 6 as a volunteer guide.

Martin Luther King Junior

One of the most famous people to come from Atlanta is Dr Martin Luther King.  Son of a Baptist Minister of the same name, Michael Luther King Junior was born on 15 January 1929 in the family home, in a nice building in a relatively affluent part of the area where the black people lived.

And yes I do mean Michael.  That was the original name of both father and son.  The father changed his name to Martin, in honor of Martin Luther, when he took over the ministry of the Ebenezer Baptist Church, and his son followed suit.

Back then, slavery may have ended, but segregation was still very much in evidence.  Black people were still looked down upon by many white people.  Adults were referred to not by their name or in any other respectful way, but 'boy', 'girl', or worse still that 'N.....' word that I am not even going to write here.

The segregation was not only a determined separation of the 'colored', but also used as a way of demeaning them.  We saw a photo of a restaurant which blacks were allowed to use, but the area they had to eat in was around the back of the toilet block.  This, and much worse, was the culture that MLK (we'll call him that from now on) was born into.

We visited the house where he was born.  With the help of some of his family. It has been restored as closely as possible to how it would have been when he was a child.

We also visited the nearby MLK centre, opposite his father's Ebenezer Baptist church.  The centre has information about his life, and is where he is laid to rest.

So what of MLK?  He had a good education and like his father, became a Baptist Minister.  His first church of his own was the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church in Montgomery, Alabama.  Whether his life and the Civil Rights Campaign would have been different had he been sent somewhere else, we'll never know, but as it was, his life was about to take a very different course.

 Because Montgomery was where Rosa Parks made her stance against segregation which led to a protest that was to kickstart the Civil Right Campaign. I'll talk about her and the protest in a later posting; for now I'll stick to what it meant for MLK.

As the protest gathered pace, MLK was chosen to lead it.  He preached to the people to have them keep faith with the protest, but most importantly, he constantly pushed the need to make this a non violent campaign.

He started talking about Civil Rights in Montgomery because of this protest, but he continued way beyond that.  In 1957 he helped to establish and run the South Christian Leadership Conference  (SCLC), and in 1959 he visited India to study Ghandi's teachings, becoming further committed to the principles of non violent protest.

His campaigning took him across the USA.  Everywhere he went he called for an end to the racial discrimination and for equality.  He joined with other campaign groups to focus their efforts.  But all the while he insisted on non violent methods.  The Greensboro sit-in protests of 1960 were an excellent example of this in practice, leading to the ending of segregation in nearly thirty lunch counters.

With his campaigning gaining pace, rather than keep a church of his own, he returned to Atlanta and joined his father at his church so that he could be freer to spend time travelling and spreading the civil rights message.

In early 1963 he was arrested and jailed for his participation in a protest in Birmingham Alabama.  Undeterred, in August of the same year he led a march on Washington.  Most people have heard of MLK's compelling speeches and this is where he delivered his most famous 'I have a dream' speech, which has become one of those often quoted phrases, even if people don't actually know any of the rest of what he said.

Of course despite his own commitment to non violence, many of his opponents had no qualms about using violence in reply.  As well as all of the brutal attacks and killings of black people generally, and of some white people who supported the campaign, MLK had threats against him personally.  His home and church were bombed on a number of occasions.

One time he was signing copies of his book in a bookstore when a woman stabbed him in the chest with a letter opener.  They told him afterwards that had he sneezed before he was patched up then it would have killed him.  He later commented that he had received a letter from a little white girl who said that she had heard about this and was very happy that he didn't sneeze.

In 1964, partly as a result of the campaigns led by MLK, but also in part a reaction to enact the wishes of the recently assassinated President Kennedy, the Civil Rights Act was passed which effectively required an end to segregation in publicly owned or run facilities.  In the same year, MLK was awarded the Nobel Prize.

Life wasn't always a bed of roses though.  In the coming years MLK faced criticism from other Afro-American leaders and he tired of the constant threats of imprisonment and personal attacks.  But he persevered.

Then in early 1968 he travelled to Memphis to support the striking sanitation workers where he delivered his 'I've Been to the Mountaintop' speech on 3 April.  This speech, which was to be his last, was almost prophetic.  It was a long speech, but I am going to include the very last section here:

"Well, I don't know what will happen now. We've got some difficult days ahead. But it really doesn't matter with me now, because I've been to the mountaintop.  And I don't mind.  Like anybody, I would like to live a long life. Longevity has its place. But I'm not concerned about that now. I just want to do God's will. And He's allowed me to go up to the mountain. And I've looked over. And I've seen the Promised Land. I may not get there with you. But I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the promised land!  And so I'm happy, tonight.  I'm not worried about anything.  I'm not fearing any man!  Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord!!"

The next day, 4 April 1968, on the balcony outside his motel room in Memphis, Tennessee, MLK was shot dead.  He was 39 years old.

His funeral service in Atlanta was attended by around 1300 people, but his body was carried in a simple wooden cart pulled by mules. They used another of his speeches, the final sermon that he had given at the Ebenezer Baptist Church only a couple of months earlier on 4 February.

It talked about what he would want people to be able to say about him if he were to die now.  The main thrust being that he wanted people not to remember his Nobel Prize, or countless other awards he had received, but that he had tried to feed the hungry, clothe the naked, be on the right side on the war question and love and serve humanity.

Was he a great man?  I don't know.  There are suggestions that when he was watched by the government he was found to have been an adulterer and perhaps other failings.  But he was a good orator for an important cause and he was determined to keep violence out of his side of the campaign.  He was steadfast in his efforts despite knowing the danger that it clearly put him in.  Does that make him great?  He is certainly a hero to many black people.

What I do know is that he did great things.  Without his belief and encouragement, the Civil Rights Campaign may not have properly got off the ground for many more years.  And had he allowed his side to resort to violence, he would have given his opponents the ability to just call them thugs and criminals and undermine their efforts.  As it was, his tireless work, and perhaps his own assassination, very probably sped up the changes that did eventually happen.

Atlanta and an ex President

From Daytona we travelled by bus to Orlando and then overnight on to Atlanta, Georgia.

Nic is generally in charge of booking our travel, and he had been especially pleased with himself for the Atlanta journey as it was free; not just the usual $1 for getting in quick on the megabus, but actually completely free for both of us.  And being an overnighter, we saved on accommodation too.   I think he was right to feel pleased.

We had a reasonably inexpensive hotel booked, that turned out to be very nice. Not least because although we arrived at around 8am, some seven hours early for checkin, they not only gave us a room straight away, but they also upgraded us and let us have breakfast there too.  This was great, because while overnight buses are great for the budget, they aren't quite so good for ones sleep.  So we had a couple of hours sleep before heading out to explore.

We were in quite a nice area for a few cafes and restaurants, so we tried a few of those during our stay, but we also checked out the nearby Jimmy Carter Presidential Center.

Now I can't say that I knew a great deal about Jimmy Carter other than he was president and he was involved in some peace negotiations.  And to be honest, I wasn't really sure that I was very interested in knowing any more than that.

But in fact I was glad we went.  It was really quite interesting, and I found a new respect for Mr Carter.  The son of a peanut farmer in Plains Georgia, James Earl Carter was born on 1 October 1924 and grew up with his white parents and black farm staff and their children.  His father, despite treating his workers well, was a supporter of the racial segregation of the time, whilst his mother favoured ending it.

Carter followed his mother's lead.  Having left his naval career to go back to help his family run the peanut farming business, he was drawn to leave that and go into politics when the governor at the time was seeking to retain segregation in schools.  And throughout his political career he worked to achieve better racial integration.

Whilst the symbol of his presidential campaign may have been the peanut, his promises were about bringing about change and being honest with the people.  Feelings are, of course mixed about whether this is something he achieved.

In his presidency, which was 1977-81, he made some improvement to the country's terrible economic position, brought in a national energy policy, worked towards environmental and human rights changes, including employing record numbers of women, black and Hispanic people to government posts.  But critics will say that most of these things had little effective impact.

He appeared to be a 'man of the people', the first to do walkabouts again following the increased security after the assassination of President Kennedy, and carrying his own bags.  But then it is said by some that he was ignorant to his staff and that the bag he carried was often empty, with the real weight being taken by others.

He did achieve a ratification of the Panama Canal Treaties and finalised a nuclear arms limitation treaty with the Soviet Union.  And he is probably best known for his work on resolving conflicts, in particular obtaining the Camp David peace agreement between Egypt and Israel. His work on negotiating peaceful resolutions is the one area that everyone seems to agree he did well.

And that work did not end with his presidency.  Together with his wife, he established the Carter Center, dedicated to preventing and resolving conflicts and improving health throughout the world.  The centre gives an excellent insight into their work.

Nobel Peace Prize

He was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 2002 for "his decades of untiring effort to find peaceful solutions to international conflicts, to advance democracy and human rights, and to promote economic and social development", and has received countless other accolades for his commitment and dedication to these aims.

So opinion about Carter seems to be very mixed. He may or may not have been a great president, but he and his wife certainly have devoted a huge part of their lives to improving the lives of others, and that surely has to be worthy of a bit of respect.