Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label Alert Bay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alert Bay. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

The U’mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay
The pride of Alert Bay is the U’mista Cultural Centre, which opened in 1980, and has an excellent display of artifacts relating to an important part of the culture of the First Nations people - the Potlatch.




The word potlatch comes from a word meaning ‘to give’, and that is loosely what the potlatch is about, the giving of gifts as a show of your generosity. The First Nations people place a high a value on a person’s generosity, so Chiefs would wish to display theirs by giving gifts, and a potlatch was where this would happen.




However, it was rather more important than that, as the potlatch effectively formed part of their legal process too.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


Potlatches were held by the chief of a tribe to mark important events. Much like in our own culture, people might gather to mark significant life events, such as births, marriages and deaths, and the coronations or inaugurations of new leaders. But whereas for us, the purpose of attending an event is simply to celebrate or commemorate it, for the First Nations people it would also serve the equivalent purpose of the legal record.



The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




We leave all that to the registrar or some other official, who keeps a written record of what has transpired, but in this culture, there is no such official, and no written communication, so the people who attended the event, which would include those from other tribes, would effectively act as those who would bear witness to it, should the need ever arise.




The potlatch ceremony would include storytelling and dance, and whatever the official business of the day was, followed by the giving out of the gifts. The fact that the guests take the gifts offered, confirms that they accept the event that has taken place, and will attest to it.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


This was all fine until we white settlers came along and wanted to ‘civilise’ everyone. Quite why we have the arrogance to believe that our way of doing things is the only right way, I don’t know, but that’s a question for another day. It wasn’t a problem early on, but as the colonial systems became established, frustrations grew with those pesky people that would insist on doing things their own way.




Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


In 1884, the first version of the Indian Act was passed, in an effort to stop the potlatch taking place, but it was ineffectual. The law was later revised, and when the potlatches continued, the authorities started to crack down. In December 1921, a potlatch was held in a place called Village Island, and forty-five people were arrested. Twenty-two of those were convicted of offences such as dancing, making speeches, and the giving of gifts.




The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




The sentences were suspended on condition that the tribe that each individual belonged to turned in all of their masks, chests and other items that were connected to the holding of a potlatch. The items confiscated were thankfully not destroyed, but were passed out to two main museums and private collectors.






Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


In this way, the First Nations tribes lost a huge part of their culture and heritage, as well as their established method of recording events. Some potlatches did continue ‘underground’ usually held during storms, when only the First Nations people were confident in travelling by canoe, as would have been necessary to reach the venues.






Items made from woven cedar bark, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay


Whilst I’m not going to go into it further now, I do just want to mention that of course the potlatch wasn’t the only thing that was banned. The legislation banned the use of First Nations languages, and required children to be sent to ‘residential schools’ where they were taught to abandon their own ways in favour of western culture and process, undermining the ability of the First Nations people to keep their culture and way of life alive.



Chilkat Blanket, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay



The Indian Act was revised again in 1951, and section 149 on the banning of the potlatch was deleted, but never officially repealed.  Nonetheless, in the latter third of the 1900s, steps were taken to start repatriating the potlatch ceremonial items that had been confiscated.





The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




The National Museum of Man in Ottawa, which had received a large share of the items, decided to return them to the First Nations people, on condition that two new museums were built to house them. This U’mista Cultural Centre is one of the two museums, and it now has a great collection of items.



Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in that section of the museum, so I can’t show you any of the pieces that they have. The photos that I have included were from the permitted section, and show other items of First Nations art and weaving.





The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay




Those sections are OK, but probably not as good as the museums in Vancouver and Victoria. In terms of information and analysis, I would have liked to see more exploration of the issues surrounding the potlatch being banned, its impact, how the tribes tried to adapt, and now that it is being brought back into the culture, how these traditional aspects and stories are being reconciled with more western education, knowledge and process.




That said, the museum is definitely worth a visit, just for the potlatch ceremonial items, which are both interesting for their history and great pieces of artwork in their own right.


Head and neckwear, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay
Blanket and apron, The U'Mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay





Sunday, September 17, 2017

Port McNeill and the totems of Alert Bay

Port McNeill
We spent the night back at Port McNeill, which is one of those places that probably doesn’t get a huge number of tourists itself, but acts as a gateway to another destination. There is nothing wrong with it, and it is always interesting to see a ‘normal’ town, but there isn’t a great deal to do. Of course, some thirty minutes into the drive out of town, we realised that we had forgotten to go and see the one claim to fame that they do have here – the world’s largest burr. In fact, not just one, but two.



In case you are not familiar with a burr, it is that lumpy outgrowth that you sometimes get on a tree, usually caused when the tree is trying to protect itself against some kind of attack, and envelopes the invading disease or bug, to prevent it getting into the core of the tree.

 

World's Largest Tree Burr, Port McNeill


Now you may wonder just how big something like that can get, and I can tell you; these two have circumferences of 45 foot and 62 feet, and weigh in at 22 and around 30 tonnes.



No, we didn’t turn the car around and do an hour of extra driving just to go back, but I have borrowed a photo for the town’s website to show you, one of them sitting in it little gazebo, so that you don’t miss out on seeing it!



Alert Bay

So, if we weren’t there for the giant burr, why were we there. Well, this is where you get the ferry to a Cormorant Island, and more specifically, to Alert Bay. The island is only eight miles all the way around, but it has become a popular place to visit because of its colonial and First Nations heritage. Getting off the ferry, we stopped off at the visitor’s centre, where we were given a very helpful introduction and maps etc.



Alert Bay



A number of the main buildings in town date back to around the end of the 1800s, or the start of the next century. There used to be a huge 1870s Fish Saltery next to the location of the ferry terminal, which then became a canning factory in 1902, until the business closed in 1941. That is gone now, but a bit further down, you can see the old net loft buildings.




Alert Bay







Some of the prettier, more colourful buildings are the old Municipal Hall, the Old Customs House and the Old Court House. Aside from the first of those, which is now the Visitor’s Centre, the buildings here are generally are private premises or lodgings, so you can’t go inside them.






Alert Bay
Another attraction, albeit one that we didn’t have time to check out, was the Ecological Park. This is an unusual swamp area on a hill, that was created when a dam was built half way up the hill to store water for the fish cannery, the natural springs caused the whole area to flood, and it killed off the trees. The area has now been set aside with a boardwalk of trails created. Apparently, they used to call the place Gator Park, even though it never had any alligators; they have since dropped that name, but it seems to have stuck with the locals.



Alert Bay
One thing that there aren’t a lot of here, is places to get something to eat, especially if, like us, you are pressed for time.  We did follow a local recommendation to try the bannock, a name that I was equating with the Scottish fruitcake, but which turned out to be basically deep-fried dough. It really wasn’t going to do our diets much good, so we had it to take away, ate about half between us – it was rather tasty after all – but ditched the rest, in an admittedly fairly poor effort to limit the calories.



Bald eagle, Alert Bay


The main attraction here though is not the houses, the swamp nor the bannock, but rather it is the collection of totem poles and the U’mista Cultural Centre. I’ll talk about the Cultural Centre in the next post, but for now, we can take a look at some of the poles, including what they claim is the tallest totem pole in the world. I say claim, because I have seen the same claim made about one in Victoria too, and I can’t say which is right. The leaflet we were given refers to a 163 foot tall pole and a 10 foot pole, but then says that the top of the pole fell down during high winds in 2007, so it may be that with the extra 10 foot it was the tallest, but no longer.



In any case, it is quite tall. I got Nic to stand at the bottom of it for a photo, to give you a sense of the scale of it. It was carved by Jimmy Dick and five assistants, and as it is not a specific family post, its images show some of the tribes of the local Kwakwaka’wakw people. The carving was finished in the late 1960s, but was only raised up in 1973.



As to the rest, I can’t tell you a great deal about them. There are a couple of stories, but I should leave those for you to discover for yourselves if you ever visit the place. So, I will just leave you with some photos.


Old Cemetery, Alert Bay

Old Cemetery, Alert Bay


Alert Bay


Alert Bay


Alert Bay

World's Tallest Totem pole (perhaps), Alert Bay

Long House, Alert Bay

Alert Bay

New Cemetery, Alert Bay

New Cemetery, Alert Bay