Welcome to our travel blog. We are Tabitha and Nic. In 2011 we 'retired' in our early 40s and set off to travel the world. We spent our first year in South America and have been lucky enough to make two trips to Antarctica.

Our blog is a record of our travels, thoughts and experiences. It is not a guide book, but we do include some tips and information, so we hope that you may find it useful if you are planning to visit somewhere we have been. Or you may just find it interesting as a bit of armchair travel.



Showing posts with label Gaudi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gaudi. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

More Gaudi in Barcelona - La Pedrera and Casa Batllo

La Pedrera, Barcelona
These two buildings are easy to combine on the same day, being close together on Passeig de Gracia. But there are a lot of details to notice in both of them, so it is best to leave a long time for both buildings and not whizz through each part without noticing the quirks.

La Pedrera (or Casa Mila) is named after its rough outer surface. Built in 1906-12 (and incorporating the first underground car park in Barcelona), it was Gaudi’s last civil engineering project, and he didn’t even do the last stage thanks to disagreements with the owners. Intended as rental flats and a family home, in 1984 it got UNESCO world heritage status.

La Pedrera, Barcelona

Its roof and main façade undulate, and the roof in particular was unlike any architecture of the time.  The roof has many fascinating twisting chimney structures that stand tall like guards for the surrounding skyline.

The only shame is the large number of cranes in the surrounding skyline that affect the views. The loft has a visually impressive 270 arches of different heights, all the more so considering the area was only designed as a laundry.








La Pedrera, Barcelona





The attic now contains a good exhibition of Gaudi’s life and work, including detailed models of designs, which could occupy a Gaudi fan for 2-3 hours. The route includes an early 20th century-styled apartment, with original furniture and household items, and floors/doors etc designed by Gaudi.

The café underneath is worth a visit (decent tea selection, very good cakes), as is the shop which had a good selection of above-average quality items.





Casa Batllo, Barcelona




Casa Batllo (1904-7) was a development of an 1877 house. Nicknamed the “house of bones” due to its external structure, it amazed Barcelona even amidst a time of many modernist designs. The front façade, with striking balconies resembling skulls or masks, must explain a lot of this impact.



Of the four Gaudi sights we saw, Casa Batllo might be the best to see last, because it of its variety and many surprises (not that the other places weren’t good in their own ways). Whilst others also worked on aspects of the house, Gaudi’s personal input was extensive, including all doors and furniture.




Casa Batllo, Barcelona



Much thought was put into maximising and managing light, with an innovative central skylight and a lightwell across all 7 floors.


But the main thing we liked was how so many shapes are like organic like forms, curves rather than straight lines, even for things like glass panels.




Bannister in Casa Batllo, Barcelona






Some things that we particularly liked was a curved oak handrail shaped like a twisting spine, a snug enclosed double seat by an oven, the multi-coloured and irregularly-shaped stained glass panels (on both interior and exterior windows), coloured roof tiles like reptilian scales, and a loft containing smooth, white parabolic arches. And a lot more besides; it was hard to take it all in!

Casa Batllo, Barcelona

Ceiling light in Casa Batllo, Barcelona

Casa Batllo, Barcelona


Casa Batllo, Barcelona

Casa Batllo, Barcelona

Casa Batllo, Barcelona

Casa Batllo, Barcelona



La Pedrera, Barcelona
Café in La Pedrera, Barcelona

La Pedrera, Barcelona

La Pedrera, Barcelona

La Pedrera, Barcelona



Floor tiles in La Pedrera, Barcelona

La Pedrera, Barcelona


La Pedrera, Barcelona

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Gaudi in Barcelona - La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
Gaudi’s main customers were the church and the Barcelona middle classes. This post includes his most famous religious building. A separate post covers two excellent residential buildings. In all these designs, it is clear how Gaudi was fascinated by geometry and nature; natural forms were often incorporated in his structural and/or ornamental work.


However, his styles were quite varied, even within one work. We can’t speak with any authority on the architectural influences, features or novelty of his work. Suffice to say, it still feels striking and, well, a bit weird.







La Sagrada Familia (current the on left, full design on the right), Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia must be the best-known of Gaudi’s works, albeit that its construction (to his original plans) seems never-ending.

It seems strange, looking at the plans, that it is already so big yet there is so much of the original design to go. In the picture (borrowed from the Gaudi book we bought) you can see that the four huge towers currently standing, are just those four small ones at the front in the full design.

Construction began in 1882, but Gaudi replaced the original architect after a year.

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
Gaudi lived to see the first bell tower finished in 1925, but a year later suffered a fatal tram accident, with under a quarter of the project finished. Three more bell towers were added by 1930. Reliance on private donations, and interruption by the Spanish Civil War, delayed construction until it began again, intermittently, in the 1950s.

You have to wonder when it will really be finished (especially the largest tower of all), albeit that 2026 is the target date (the centenary of Gaudi’s death).
La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


Grand, impressive, and very strange is how I would describe La Sagrada Familia. Both the inside and outside are striking. The external façade gives the impression that the stone is dripping, rather more suggestive of a gate into Hell. There are a lot of religious and natural details on the outside walls, which apparently have much symbolism but are lost on me.

Inside, the effect of the multi-coloured stained glass (dating only from 1999) is especially striking. We were lucky that the sun was out strongly during our visit, strengthening the impact of this glass. The interior is also notable for its stone columns, up to 21m high, many of which branch off as they reach the vaulted ceilings, like a dense indoor forest reaching its canopy.

The light stone columns and the angles they create scatter the light from the stained glass windows in different directions.


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

There were also a lot of details a lot to take in internally. The shapes and decoration were typically flowing Gaudi lines, not regular shapes. Some of the internal elements were more surprising to us. The heraldic shields on the columns just looked a bit too much like beer mats. There also seemed to be a paragliding crucifixion. And some of the steps reminded me of Escher. There was also a general lack of symmetry and cohesiveness, which may of course have been exactly the idea.
La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona






We bought timed tickets the day before to avoid a longer wait/queue; we heard that the waiting time when we went was 3 hours for those with no booking. The timed ticket process and the scale of the building itself helped it to not feel that overloaded inside, especially for such a tourist mecca. We didn’t appreciate when buying the tickets that audio guides had to be bought at the same time as the tickets, but getting the feel of the place was probably more important than hearing the details.










Park Guell, Barcelona



Park Guell, developed especially in 1900-1903 (and more over the next decade), is a bit out of the centre but the tourist bus goes right to the gate. Intended for private residences, Gaudi took a lot of inspiration for Park Guell from the British garden city idea, as an escape from the unhealthy industrial city - hence the English spelling ‘Park’.






Park Guell, Barcelona

The development never took off commercially, so in the end, Gaudi bought one of the two houses that had been built, and lived there from 1906-26. The building now contains the Gaudi house Museum, but we didn't go in there.

There are some quite different styles on show in the park, from the ‘classic Gaudi’ flowing lines and curves, such as on the benches around the large public square (which collects rain), to the Greek columns (some of them deliberately but strangely leaning) below the square, which channel the water into a tank to water the extensive gardens, and the Mudejar style from southern Spain.

Park Guell, Barcelona


Nature is also a common theme, including the salamander whose mouth serves as the overflow for the tank. Mosaics are common, but on one ceiling collage Gaudi goes beyond that to include bits of glasses, bottles and dolls! In good weather, and for fans of Gaudi, this is a pleasant visit, although there was a huge number of people taking photos of themselves to prove their presence, which made it harder to appreciate the main attractions sometimes.


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona




La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona


Gaudi House Museum, Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona


Park Guell, Barcelona




Park Guell, Barcelona

Park Guell, Barcelona