Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

The main purpose of our trip to Italy, was to visit Assisi, and even though we had moved our base, the plan was still to go there, as long as the earthquakes held off. Thankfully, the aftershocks seemed to have mostly settled, so Nic and his mum hopped on a train.

It was only a couple of hours away, so gave them enough time for an unhurried walk around the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, lunch, and a few more hours around town.

Assisi

Let me start with a bit about the saint that has made this town so famous. The man who was to become St Francis of Assisi was born in 1181, and was originally named Giovanni by his French mother, but his wealthy cloth seller father changed it to Francisco when he returned home, supposedly because he wanted his son to be a Francophile businessman, not a man of God. Well that worked out well for him!

His early life is said to have been filled with drunken escapades, and he revelled in the adventure of going off to fight when Assisi went to war with neighbours Perugia. Assisi were soundly beaten, with most from Assisi being killed.

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Francisco was spared because of his expensive clothes, with the Perugians holding him for ransom instead. He was held for a year before his father paid to free him, and it is believed that he may have contracted an illness during that time, that could account for the 'visions from God' that he believed that he had experienced.

After he was released, he was going to fight again, but he had a vision that made him turn back to Assisi. His behaviour changed, and he started to devote himself to helping others. When he had a vision from Christ, telling him to rebuild his Church, he took it to mean the one he was in, a little run down chapel called San Damiano. He sold some of his father's cloth to raise money, but his enraged father took him to the bishop to get his money back. It is said that Francisco returned the money, and the clothes he was wearing, and said that from then on the only father he recognised was God, marking the final start of his new life.

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

He gained a large following, reaching in the area, and sought to move away from the riches of the church towards worshipping God through embracing poverty and good deeds. Many considered him to be mad, possibly as a result of the illness he had during his imprisonment. In 1224, he claimed he had another vision, which resulted in him being the first person to be left with stigmata, though some believe that his wounds could have been caused by having contracted leprosy during his time working with lepers.

As his health declined, he was given bodyguards, to ensure that in the event of his death, his body would not be stolen. This was because it was widely believed that he would be canonised, and there was money to be had in having the 'relics' of a saint. He died on 3 October 1226, at the age of 44, and was made St Francis of Assisi on 16 July 1228, the patron saint of animals and the environment.

View from Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

The day after his canonisation, the first stone was laid for the church to be built on his honour. It was already planned, and the land on Asio Hill had been donated by Simone di Pucciarello.

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

The hill had previously been used for state executions, and was nicknamed the Hill of Hell, which seems a little incongruous given its new purpose. But then again, the building of such an ostentatious and expensive monument to a man who had denounced all wordly goods, and made a virtue out of living in poverty, seems somewhat inappropriate too.

Assisi

The church - or rather churches, there are two - were consecrated by Pope Innocent IV in 1253. Fifty-five years later, in 1288, the place was given the title of Major Basilica. It is certainly very impressive, with lots of variation in the structure and decoration. I can't include any photos of the interior as you are not allowed take any. Nic said of this that, – aside from it actually being a place of worship! – it is understandable as it would be completely unworkable to get people flowing through otherwise.

After the Basilica, they made their way up a hill, which was long but flanked by shops and other places to stop off. Steeper streets wound off it too; a week in Assisi would certainly be a good workout. Of course, nearby the Basilica it was busy, but not much so elsewhere, and even the shops and restaurants more geared to tourists weren’t especially tacky.

Assisi Cathedral, Assisi

The last major earthquake to hit Assisi was in 1997, and a considerable amount of rebuilding was required afterwards. Although this recent earthquake and aftershocks did touch Assisi, it was only on the periphery, and so it was lucky to survive them with no real damage.

When Nic and his mum stopped for lunch, they figured it was high time that they got around to having a proper Italian pizza, so ordered one each. They turned out to be huge enough to give them something to work off. Nic said that one between them would have been enough, but you have to persevere!

A day trip to Assisi is easy enough, especially as the bus will take you there direct from the train station. Aside from the Basilica, Assisi has various other impressive buildings and smallish squares, some of which they managed to fit in.

Temple of Minerva, Assisi

The Cathedral of Saint Rufino is named after the bishop who first brought Christianity to Assisi, and there has been a church of some form here since the fifth century. The bell tower is part of a church that was built on 1028, but is the only part remaining  after the rest was torn down and replaced with the current building in 1134. It was here that St Francis of Assisi was baptized, and the font is still in the cathedral.


The Corinthan columns on the façade of the Temple of Minerva, are rather impressive, and date back to the first century; sadly, the church inside is not so old, and according to Nic is rather uninspiring.

Chiesa Nuova, Assisi

The Chiesa Nuova, or New Church, is not so new at all anymore. It was built in 1615 by Antonio de Trejo, who was the Spanish Vicar General of the Franciscans. He was dismayed at the dismal state of the house that St Francis was born and grew up in, and so with the help of money from King Philip III Spain, bought the property and built the church on the site, with the high alter over the spot where his bedroom would have been.

Nic felt that Assisi would be a relaxing stay for a number of days, to enjoy discovering it more at leisure (and recovering from the hills with a few ice creams), especially outside summer and after the day trippers have gone. He can certainly see himself going back there for a deeper look, and hopefully me getting a chance to actually see it this time.

Assisi

View from Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Basilica San Francesco, Assisi

Assisi

View from Assisi

Assisi

Assisi

Assisi

Assisi

Assisi